I'm at work right now. The VPC came with the car and the chip was working fine on the old motor. When I get home tonight I'll go buy a hand vacuum pump (minyvac?) and check the pressure sensor and the temp sensor. After that I'll post up my findings and see what you guys say. The kid I bought...
Bondango you beat me to that last post heh. That's the site I had favorited before, thanks! Unfortunately nobody in this little town is much into cars and off the top of my head I cannot think of anyone that has one. Right now I don't have the cash to buy another either... Is it possible that...
I've been updating the original problem as best as I can. It doesn't stumble like it did before, and I can't smell the gas as much as I could before. Also when I blip the throttle it doesn't try to die like it used to, it freely revs. So at least half of the problem is figured out. Still though...
Yep, the 550cc chip is in the VPC. They're all just plugs and harnesses, MAF and AIT sensor both are only one plug, I haven't missed anything. It's just finicky because when the car is idling and I'll lean it out via the gain and idle knobs, the idle gets a little more rough but the wideband...
I was sort of confused on where to put it as everybody seems to place the bung right after the turbo. The instructions said 36" after the turbo, so I guesstimated and it is probably 25" down the downpipe at about a 15-20* angle toward the transmission. Would that matter? I'm sure it wouldn't set...
As per this picture I do not have the "1 green and 1 brown wire for the ecu temp sensor" plug on my harness. My guess is this is why it's running like crap. I have the other single wire, the yellow with green strip. Any way I can hardwire it into the ecu? Where would I find that plug at to run...
I had no idea that /\ would effect it at all! I just thought the stock coolant gauge wouldn't operate. I'll try fixing that soon, the wires are broken off in the sensor though. Anyone have the plug they could cut off their harness? lol
I'm 100% sure the timing is correct. When I was...
I've been reading threads for days, no one seems to have the same problems as what I have.
First and foremost, I just finished a rebuild and some key parts I'm using that may help diagnose my problem are:
Denso 550s
HKS VPC/GCC
EGR! CC! VSVs!
Stock fuel pump and FPR, there is vacuum to...
You could crack the throttle body open with the adjustment screw on the top of it...? Not really sure what you're talking about with the cable from the transmission, the speedo cable that goes through the firewall? You'll have to do more than just bolt one on too..
-Chris
It still roughly adjusts the fuel, would it just completely not work without that signal? Its hard to tell what it's doing because my idle is horrible right now.
-Chris
VPC converts the afm to speed density, removing the afm as stated for years. Am I supposed to put a resistor or something in the afm because I just fired my car up last week finally and its storing code 31=afm.
You cleared the difference between boost and vacuum leak to me, I just wasn't fully comprehending it for some reason. Problem is 1) it's tough to keep the car idling long enough to do this and two 2) most of the time the rpms are fluctuating so it would be hard to tell when it is spiking...
The passageway for air that enters the manifold through the ISCV? It runs through the passage right up to behind the throttle body, my guess is so the air is right in the middle of the manifold like air would normally enter >idle. Or so it has an even supply of air for all cylindars.
-Chris
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