Search results

I think there is suppose to be bolts instead of studs on the main by were the oil pump goes. Something about clearance in that area with studs if I remember right, might want to check it.

Don't rev it that high very much, would like to keep things intact :)

I've seen 7500 on the Maft-Pro logs. Don't think I'd be spinning 8500, but it still seems to want to keep going at 7500.

I have Eagle "H" beam rods, didn't have to clearence the oil pump drive shaft.

I noticed a leak on mine, looks very much like your's, and can't figure exactly were it's coming from. Guess I'll have to do the UV dye myself.

Had to remove my resonator, headers burnt a hole in it.

That sounds like a lot more than valve lash. Not right that the cam lobes are scored. They normally get worn, not scored. Did you notice anything laying around when you had the VC off? May have spit a spacer.

Don't remember seeing a TRD for MK's.

You can have fun with an NA. I did the same thing years ago much the same as you want to, except drag strip. Did some minor mods at first, headers, intake, suspension, etc.Then like others said sharp turns and hard breaking at the same time is a problem. Mine did it 4 times at Sebring before I...

I'd say check the clutch switch.

Looks badass..like shit:)

Retorque by breaking loose each one, I'd do it in the same order as the TSRM says to, then torque to spec. Glad to hear you cleared the code.

Probably get more responce in the general section, sounds like either air in the system or the master.

Is the BBK the Mustang twin? Do you have pics of your adaptations? I had posted in the general section asking about such set-ups, not too many replies. You have about the same mods that I have except mostly the stroker kit. Notice any difference with the larger TB?

I think you sent me some info on TB's before George, what TB are you using that's 70mm?

Have you got 5-6 heat cycles on it? If so I would re-torque the HG by reading your previous post about how you torqued the head. Not normal that you are getting code 52 after a rebuild. Check your connections, don't think that's it, post back exactly what you have done as far as your rebuild.

Just the valve job would be more than $200 including resurface, lash, ready to bolt on. A complete rebuild would cost $1500 and up plus parts.

Don't understand what you are talking about "flipping the cams". Thought if the marks were all lined up, #1 on TDC, rotor pointing at #1 wire, it will fire up. Unless something else is wrong. You are suppose to torque in progressive values, 4-5 incriments. If you didn't do that then yes you...

Codes?

Are you sure #1 is at TDC?