I was having a very similar issue on my Celica. It turned out to be a combination of the drivers side wheel bearing causing an intermittent grinding/screeching noise and the passenger side front control arm bushing which caused a banging/clanking noise. Just throwing that out there.
90 SRS Wheel. I kept the airbag ECU under the center console; so even though I like the looks of the 89 style the best, I decided to stick with the 90. I had it completely refurbished like new. So it looks extra tyte. :)
Ha! Reminds me of Ghostbusters.
"Everybody can relax, I found the car. Needs some suspension work and shocks. Brakes, brake pads, lining, steering box, transmission, rear-end....."
- Dr. Ray Stantz
Oh where to start?
First off, what boost guage are you running that you see the turbo hitting 18psi (stock boost is only 6.8psi)? What fuel mods do you have to be safely hitting 18psi? What piggybacks or standalone are you running to bypass fuel cut allowing you to build 18psi? Are you...
Now I've seen turbo blankets, hood blankets, pipe blankets......but an entire engine blanket?!! Wowza!
Is there a benefit to keeping all that heat inside the engine? Do you run sensitive electronics in the bay or something? It doesn't even look like your drawing air in from the bay.
Pull the EFI fuse and crank the engine over until you build up oil pressure. Then put the fuse back and fire the engine up. If you really want to be anal; you can hold the impeller wheel for the first minute or so to make sure the bearing is properly lubricated. Personally, I don't like the idea...
Did you make sure to prime the turbo properly prior to firing up the engine? If it was ran dry, even for a little bit, it can damage the bearing and cause shaftplay. Enough shaft play can cause the wheel to come in contact with the housing; which can lead to bent fins.
Not saying that's what...
Not sure how much help this is; but I've heard that sound before. I had the same thing happen to the original 7M that came with my car. It was ran with a BHG for years before I purchased it. The first day out I was boosting up an incline on the highway doing around 90mph. I remember distinctly...
I thought the whole point of a rev limiter was to build boost off of the line? What do you plan to accomplishby installing one on an N/A? I mean, no turbo; no boost. Why not install a intercooler and BOV on your NA while your at it?
Save yourself the hassle. Either build your n/a, do a turbo...
I don't believe that the blue plug is for the stereo. If you want to save yourself the headache of wiring in a new unit; just grab yourself an Eclipse deck. Anything Fujitsu Ten should be plug and play.
When I had my interior out, I noticed that the telescopic function of the steering wheel wasn't working properly. It was extrememly hard to push/pull back and forth. I could barely get it to move. I honestly thought I was going to bend the wheel at one point. Mind you the vehicle was sitting...
Short shifter definitely isn't installed backwards. And the shifter moves so little when going into each gear that you couldn't possibly tell whether it was in 3rd or neutral by looking at it. Since it barely moves, I am nowhere near hitting the radio, but it sure does look weird leaning so far...
Hard to give a review when the car doesn't start yet. However, I installed a BIC trans and BIC engine brace along with the Beech short shifter and damn is it a tight shift! All it takes is a quick flip of the wrist to throw it through the gears. I can't wait to try it out for real.
Split heater core may also be the culprit; but your feet would be getting wet. Also, if you have a large air pocket in the cooling system, it can produce the same sound. If you purge the system and the air returns. That's a pretty good sign that there's a combustion leak into your cooling...
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