Color change and sound deadening thread:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?98641-Operation-quot-Can-t-hear-shit-quot-*Pics*&highlight=automagic
Door speaker thread...
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Depends on how much blow-bythe engine has. Which depends and many varables such as engine wear, including worn rings and seals. Also, I believe the more boost one pushes, the more blow-by the can expect. If your cc is filling up quickly, there are issues you need to address.
Here ya go.
I never actually ended up putting the one-way valve to the intake pipe like what's pictured in the below diagram. As IJ had previously pointed out in another thread, it is not needed.
Catch can located under driver side fender:
I should be putting down 550rwhp and I'm running a factory 1J TB which is the same diameter inlet as the 7M's. I'm more concerned about throttle response then losing a little up top. Unless you're upping your IC pipes to 3" and going stand-alone, I woudn't mess with the TB.
Randy is the shit! I've bought 3 DDP's from the guy, even sent one back to have it modify it to a new turbo hotside. Quality was awesome and turnaround was surpringly fast for oversees. I also run his engine and trans braces as well as his test pipe.
I've been so busy relocating all of my tools and cleaning out the garage that I really haven't had any time at all to troubleshoot wiring. Since I was getting 12v from the signal wire and running power off of the battery to the starter's spade got it to crank, I was thinking of wrapping a wire...
I don't get it . If depressing the clutch completes the connection of the neutral safety switch wires and sends 12v to the starter, why would I need to wire in the black relay switch wire? Perhaps the black relay wire under the dash is the same one on the engine harness that I ran to the clutch...
I have the black wire from the AT harness ran to one side of the clutch switch, and the white wire from the AT harness ran to the other side of the clutch switch. When I push in the clutch and turn the key to start I hear a loud "click" in the engine bay. I pulled the signal plug from the...
Awesomo! That should be easy enough.
How does this affect the fuel pump not coming on tho? I'm hoping that simply splicing the wires togther resolves all issues.
I already have both wires going to the clutch pedal switch. Any reason why I can't have both wires (black wire and white wire from AT harness) going to the clutch switch? Doesn't it just complete the circuit as if both wires were spliced together in the first place? I'm confused. Wouldn't...
The starter plug from the relay wire looked very corroded inside (could just be old dirty dielectric grease). It'd be great if I could simply splice on a new plug and be in business. :)
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That's what I was thinking. But what would cause the fuel pump to stop working? I only heard it come on the first few times I depressed the clutch and tried starting the car.
I will be in the garage this Thursday with my multimeter and try to track down the source. I'm just trying to get as...
I ran power from the battery to the lead on the side of the starter and it worked just fine. So I would think the my grounds were good. Not quite sure what is responsible for sending the signal. What are the chances that the lower clutch pedal switch is bad?
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Thanks. It is. However, my setup appears to be different. The cable that runs from the front of the cabin is a good 12 inches shorter than the one you show. Also, there a two cables coming in from the third tail light, not one like shown. One has a ball at the end and fits the same way yours...
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