IMHO the best "value" BBK remains the Sleeper Designs kit that was based on LS400 4 piston calipers. Unfortunately I don't think it is available anymore.
The injection at 8.8ms is pretty close to what the stock ecu would use for a warmish start. That is a lot of timing, the stock ecu uses 10deg during cranking, but I would still expect it to light up. What this does confirm is that the ECU is getting all the inputs it needs and is producing...
You must be a fan of Tavarish (APiDA) on Jalopnik. He loves writing about cars that cost 6 figures and depreciate ridiculously fast. If you can do the repairs without visiting the dealer then its a great strategy to own some fantastic cars.
http://apidaonline.kinja.com/
Maybe this will add some value, who knows... top problem areas:
1) Starter motor itself (bad copper contacts in starter solenoid)
2) Ignition switch
3) Pax side kick panel starter relay
4) NSW switch (A/T only)
5) bad clutch interlock switch (MT only)
6) mangled/damaged/loose starter wire...
Valve seals usually harden with age, uniformly. My guess is that you replaced the worst ones, but have another 5 cylinders that are still contributing. Can I ask why you would go to all that trouble and not replace them all?
I think they are discontinued. I've seen them on Ebay from time to time.
Here's a 92, which will be the same as 91.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-Toyota-Supra-Electrical-Wiring-Diagrams-Service-Repair-Manual-FACTORY-/271648501887?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item3f3f83307f&vxp=mtr
Correct, don't cut that or you will run the full starter relay current through the interlock relay winding, and then your would have to do the starter relay mod next :: facepalm ::
Well for starters, if the datalog shows engine speed you can be sure that the crank sensor is working without the all the shenanigans with the oscilloscope. Typical cranking speed is 300 rpm so its plainly visible on the datalog.
You can also check what air flow is being measured, and...
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