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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqYZG58kRHs Look at 0:25 seconds in to the start of this 1992 Top Gear Intro. Location of bolts, shape, etc., everything looks like a match to me. Actually, there's maybe three separate shots, front at the start, then the light, then the tail at the end.

Mine have run trouble free for 6 years now. I don't think there is any issue with lubrication. The point of making sure the new wipe area is pristine is important. There is a dust shield that helps. Mine were very clean, but I live in a benign climate.

They extract air from the cabin. Held on by two nuts and some clips on the backside. You need to take out the inside trim plastics to replace, quite a bit of work.

I had a similar problem long ago that was due to worn calipers. They would bind on the slides and then release with a snap. New calipers fixed the problem. I had replaced everything else like you describe.

You may want to consider this. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?41543-Fix-for-dripping-differential&p=571418&highlight=lsd+seal+washer#post571418

No, I mean replace the long slide hammer center section with a much shorter piece. Then it does not get tangled in the suspension and hub. Otherwise you need to remove the differential to get enough room to use the slide hammer effectively.

Use a 12 in bolt and nut of the same diameter to make a short slide hammer. Worked for me.

That job is why this was invented

I'm a bit confused. Your last paragraph seems to say that the coolant sensor is working fine. It should drop down in voltage as the engine heats up to operating temp just as you describe. The initial reading of 4.97V at THW is not correct though and suggested an open circuit. Something is not...

Would appear it doesn't pass ARB's Rapid Aging Test for aftermarket converters, so I'm not sure it really is as good as you say.

The only non-replaceable OEM bushings are the front lowers, and if you understand how the forces are oriented on those bushings you'll understand why they are not replaceable.

No. Code 12 is no rpm signal. Check CPS and wiring.

Will 18 mm work? http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-crush-washers/=u0uau5

Your propane test was pretty suggestive that the sensor was likely good. 0V can also mean it is open loop. You have verified 12V across the O2 sensor heater? Things that keep the car in open loop are coolant temp, throttle position, no O2 cross count, high rpm and high load. The last two...

Check continuity between the TE1 connector under the hood and the ECU connector.

If that one is like the Techtom units I have looked at before, then fuel cut is removed completely. However, the internal injector limit is not removed, so once you go above a certain load value the injector duration gets fixed. Not very safe.

Yup, this is basically a piggyback built into the ECU. The processor is not removed and is running the original factory code. This must have predated the Techtom daughterboard. Any documentation on the adjustments that can be made with the switches and pots?

For those who have done or are contemplating doing the transgo. did you choose street or strip?

A picture of the bottom side of the factory half board would be helpful. The middle board of the sandwich.

Interesting. That appears to be a built-in piggyback,as the MCU is left in the factory location and does not appear to be running in external memory mode. At least, from those pictures that appears to be the case.