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31 is fatal. You need to fix that one before anything else.

Me too, original owner. For wheels I suggest you look at getting some late model Lexus or Toyota "take-offs". They are generally cheap, and made to the same quality as the sawblades you have. For example, IS250 and IS350 wheels are direct fit.

I like the Tanabe bars as well. All these bars stiffen up the rear a lot which reduces understeer but makes the inside rear wheel pick up a bit, which can make the rear end a little more prone to breaking loose under power in a turn.

post #20. The only way to fix any issue is to pull it apart. Before I did that I would follow the recommendations in this Supra TSB DIFF004 NOV 90 Differential - Reduced Chatter Noise, Limited Slip

Have you tried driving in a circle going in reverse? There was a TSB a long time ago on this and that was the solution.

so it idles from 3k to 0 depending on whether you push on the linkage?

What about the throttle plate?

Before you pull the plug,would be worth while to do some simple tests. 1) Check the crank pulley bolt is tight. A loose pulley can sound like rod knock. 2) Pull the injector plugs one by one and listen for knock. The bad cylinder should go quiet with no fuel to it. 3) Make sure you don't have a...

The #3 cover is a separate part. The plug wire holders snap into it. Its a pretty shoddy design to be honest,and some people ditch the cover and use o-rings at the hex plugs. I just replace the #3 cover and the other two cover gaskets every 5 years or so. Its usually flaking badly by then with...

There's nothing there that contradicts what I said i.e. pinion preload is a separate issue. The clutch preload is set by the springs and shims selected. The Weir MAX GRIP LSD kit is just a spring that goes inside the stock spring that applies pressure to the outer spider gears and clutches. The...

Sometimes those capacities can be off. I know the A/T fill is off by 0.5 qt. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=MA&P=11

The pinion preload issue has nothing to do with the clutch plates and plate wear.

The hex plugs seal the between the #3 head cover and the oil galley underneath it. The one at the back has a threaded hole for a clamp that holds the heater hose coming out of the union back there. Yours appears to be missing. Light oil seepage is typical as the #3 cover starts to disintegrate...

That part allows the pulley to be held by a second breaker bar. It has the extra benefit of allowing you to actually torque the nut to the correct value on reassembly.

You need to find the leak downstream of the throttle valve. The upstream leak at the TB coupler would not cause a high idle problem. I'd start by making sure the throttle plate closes fully.

Try some synthetic Mobil 1 gear lube. My experience with it was that the clutches did not lock up enough with it, but yours seems extra tight so it may work better. I am a bit confused though, how did black goo come out if it was shipped dry?

Find the air leak into the intake manifold.

Yup, same KV sensor, just a little variation on the details.

Its the standard module without the housing? Not sure why you think it is special.

Neither of those switches are great candidates. The defrost has a built in timer so it is completely useless. The hazard is a very complicated switch, but it could be used. You can use pins 6 and 7 or 2 and 5 for example.