Did you disable your clutch switch so you can start it without pressing the clutch? It's recommended for heavier pressure plates like yours/mine to protect your crank thrust bearings.
I'd like to see a vid made like this one, although doing this kind of thing seems quite dangerous on a road like this!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jrr-VPmWO8Y
It was discussed last year here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?96336-New-Torsen-for-the-MK3
I think 2 members on here are using these.
This is true. Ever since I got my quick spool valve working properly and increasing low end torque so much I'm having way more wheelspin problems even with high end BFG KD 295 summer tires.
I highly recommend using OEM motor mounts, and a BIC poly damper/rod to limit engine movement. I run this combo on my car, and I enjoy the smoothness of stock mounts with very little movement at 450hp (my trans mount is also OEM). The BIC dampers are available for both 87-88 and 89+ now. Below...
My EBC redstuff pads are doing this now, even with sound damping pads installed and tons of Brake Quiet damping goo on them. They were quiet when new so who knows. You may have success with the Brake Quiet product, but you must let it dry overnight before reinstalling the pads.
Still a pretty fast mph. I tried drag racing on street tires at 450hp once, and will never do it again. It just doesn't work! Duane's drag radials hooked up pretty well, I was able to run full boost in 1st gear.
What HID's are you running? I bought Acura TSX housings which I simply plan to seal...
Yep, after each 2nd gear pull or run through the gears, I have to mess with it to get unchoked. I'm so used to it now, I just do it and don't really think about it anymore.
Mine does this every time and yes, it's a bit annoying. I think passengers find it creates a little extra fear when they get squished back into the seat then pinned and squeezed in place by the sealbelt because it retracts a bit first before it locks under acceleration. ;)
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