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Is it just me or is it in backwards? It looks like it is in the pic. "Hump" of the plug should be facing out when installed, then center peened (hammered)

I cut the lower half off the bracket and mounted it on the other side, when I installed my ic, even extended the harness so the birdcage light still works. On that note, has anyone found a decent replacement float switch, outside of OEM? Mine isn't as buoyant as it should be.

How many flies does it take to screw in a light bulb? two.......but I don't know how they got in there.

I'm sorry, I thought you were saying that you followed a connector back towards the intake and came up to a dead end wire.

What's the other end connector look like?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=4502&P=1 Yup you took one too many things off the pump when you took the line off.

Yes but it doesn't necessarily measure speed like a MAF but also the strength of the recurring vortices created, stronger the vortices the more it shakes the little mirror and the thicker air affects the vortices created in the meter, same principle why a KV "can" be "blow thru" to an extent.

http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-rearhatchbumpstopsmk3supra.php

Its an FMU for turbo'ing a NA car without a fuel controller. They raise FP at a ratio >1:1 when in boost. http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Fuel-Management-Units/

Humidity affects the density of the air which in turn will affect FC.

Same setup here but with their test pipe as well, perfect fit. It also has the divider that sticks in the turbo to divide wastegate and turbine gases all the ebay ones I've seen don't have one.

A little far fetched but are you sure its not the tems actuator doing something funky? If you can feel it in the regulator it might be. Unplug it, it may be in left field but I've spent countless hours diagnosing something that wasn't broken, so check the stupid stuff first is what I do now.

If you torqued it in that config, then you didn't torque it correctly and might fall apart on you. You have the right idea just the wrong direction, you want the ball joint to be pressing down when tight not up.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/sealed.html

It may be a silly check, but in my day, I've had a few of these problems reported to me and every single time it was a ripped or torn boot somewhere after the AFM. Especially if it only happens with your on the throttle, basically the engine under the hood is twisting in it mounts when your on...

All that happened here is the HBV has been bypassed so water is flowing through your heater core at all times, rather than only when switched on. If your 89+ then the temp at which that valve opens will vary on cabin air temp. If the valve is bad, then you can replace it with a valve from a 92...

I thought factory key-less was 92 only?

It goes through a metal tube, down a hole in the frame rail, with a grommet. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=7701&P=2

I think it's only purpose is when the t-stat is open, water is pumped into the block up into the head then out the front of the head at the t-stat housing and through that pipe to the t-stat housing, this way the back of the head gets circulation. If not without the heater core flowing, the...

Whats the OEM thread size/pitch of the OEM shifter?