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http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=51 Start Here^ make sure that first of tightening the bearing caps is in several passes to "walk" the cam down. Notice the orientation/clocking of the cams, its important to the tightening sequence

Did you bypass the j-tube?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=1603&P=1 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=8716&P=1

Careful with a stock disc on that flywheel, mainly just the insert. http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?685353-Spec-Aluminum-Flywheel-hitting-OEM-Clutch My own experience.

If its the common issue with our starting systems then yes it would. When it just clicks with the key, try running a direct wire from the sig terminal on the starter to the battery and see what happens.

Since you can't get behind the pulley you'll need one of these

you'll want a 2mm. And it will be 3 gaskets and 2 shims riveted together, there should have been another gasket on the other side of that shim. Remember to cut the rivets off the new gasket that will hit

Where? I can't find them on their site anymore.

If the fittings are only 3/8 on the plate then that will be your weakest link as far as flow. 3/8 = -6an

If you didn't have the front cover machined with the block then your screwed. It should have been bolted on when the block was decked

Think the spray out of the big end when its at the top of its stroke is enough to soak the cylinder walls, then have the oil ring push it on the pin? I am currently on eagle rods and forged pistons and was wondering if I could delete the squirters, but I'm worried about pin oiling. I was so...

Happened to me, basically the rear track for the regulator has spread open. Its a thin piece of sheet metal with a long slot down the middle and curved sides to hold the roller. Squeeze it back together and you'll be set.......for awhile. I thought of tacking a small piece behind the slot for...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=3 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=4 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=5

^I was just about to mention that, IIRC it was as simple as switching some wires, the conversion is done internally. Did you do anything to carry over the gauge idents, "temp", "Oil Pres", "Fuel" etc? I cant tell. Whats the difference between the 2 fuel sending units? Different resistance...

Hook up the big hose to the accordion pipe, these AFM controlled cars hate post meter leaks. It appears that you have a vaccum line hanging out by the turbo. It should go to the BVSV(Blue thingy) on the T-Stat housing.

Affordable upper control arms with serviceable ball joints to name one

Correct BSPT not NPT. Would make for a very long day if you try to force an NPT in there.

Trust me, i literally went through this about 6 months ago. http://www.hydraulicsdirect.com/British_metric_fittings_s/1914.htm

Its actually 1/4 and its BSPT not NPT

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BO&P=12 How to adjust the door glass here ^ and the next page