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Have you removed the pressure plate bolts or pulled the clutch fork?

Thanks dude! If anyone has the color version, I'll take that too!

Awesome! Thanks dude.

All you experts at digging through the internets, help me out here. There was, at one time, a demotivational poster of a late model Camaro - or perhaps a Firebird - at the start of a curvy section of twisty road. I seem to recall a road sign that read something along the lines of Danger...

Small update. I've finally got the new battery box, circuit breaker, meth pump, and meth tank all mounted and wired in. Battery box is from Moroso, it's composite, and NHRA certified. Circuit breaker is a generic surface mount marine 100A. Meth tank and pump are from AEM. The nice thing...

Yes, I realize there may be complications coming from his location... I'm only posting mods needed to get to the power levels he mentioned. I'm sure he can talk to Aaron at DM and get a similar list that's more California smog friendly.

Ok, for 350hp you're going to need the following: - An engine in good shape, including hoses, gaskets, etc. - Intake - I suggest a Blitz or AEM air filter - Exhaust from the turbo back. Personally I used a BIC DDP and had a local place fab me up a full 3" pipe from there back - Something to...

- Click on Settings in the top right. - On the menu on the left, under My Settings, choose General Settings. - Scroll down until you see the section that says: Sent Private Messages: * Save a copy of sent messages in my Sent Items folder by default * Don't save a copy of sent messages...

IMO, if you already have it out of the car, AND you are already pulling it open to replace gaskets, AND you don't know what the condition is, AND you have the budget to put in a 2J, why would you NOT do a rebuild? The cost is minimal, it's far more convenient than after you've dropped it into...

That would belong in another thread, titled something like, "Why don't more MK3's autocross?" which you should probably start, if you want to discuss it.

Make sure you get the entire exhaust... just the catback isn't going to have much effect. Pair that up with a BIC DDP, and now you're talking. Add in $20 worth of manual boost controller and some time getting it just under fuel cut... perfect.

I think you aren't comparing similar paths, to be honest. A rebuilt 7M is a better option than an unknown quality JZ series engine. If you want to go to the JZ route, factor in the cost of getting it rebuilt as well. Among other things, it's going to cost you a LOT less to open up the engine...

Leakdown test should help you narrow it down. Not that it really matters at this point, if it's not holding pressure like it should, it has to come out and get torn apart again.

Mine is a comic book character from the 80s. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grimjack

Any ideas how much power you're pushing through it? I've got the 44mm TIAL on a rather similar setup, and it's working ok...

That's a Maxx Autoworks front bumper, which is probably worth more than the car. Although I'm not sure what shape it's in after being mounted overtop of the stock bumper!

I seem to recall Brad cursing wildly after installing it... and he'd had a week or two to calm down. Something about it would be faster to pull the engine, put it all together outside the car, then drop the engine back in.

It's the valve that sets how much braking you get from the front wheels vs the rear wheels. If you simply run it at 50:50, the rear wheels will lock up long before the fronts do, which is not a good thing. Ideally, you want all 4 wheels to lock up at the same time. Well, actually, you want...

Snout side goes towards the pressure plate, flat side goes towards the flywheel. Edit: Wow, wait 5 minutes and get beat by 3 people! The membership must be bored this morning... ;)

Actually, the cars without ABS are somewhat rare, as I understand it. Most of the NA cars came with it. Not that that means you won't be able to find one, but don't expect it to be in the first shell you open up...