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Activated with a switch, and as soon as its activated it'll hold whatever rpm you're at. It'll make whatever boost you have as the setpoint. Super easy, no setup required other than a switch and some wire back to the ProEFI.

Rolling anti lag is used before you start accelerating to keep the boost up (it also keeps you at exactly the speed you're going whenever you depress the switch to enable it, which is very helpful), it does not automatically enable itself in between shifts after you go WOT. hex: I don't...

You use a 2 step for staging, and anti lag to launch the car. Only rally cars use anti lag for keeping spool up for between shifts. A 2 step keeps the rpms constant irrelevant of all other things (not interested in building boost). Anti lag keeps the rpms constant but also builds boost to aid...

Awesome find! I saw on one of the benz forums that some of their calipers had the same mounting distance as ours but never figured out which ones. It'd be nice to compare the weight, piston diameter etc of this bolt on kit to some of the aftermarket options. edit: (stock) single 60mm - 2827...

If you're hard on a tire and want them to last long you're sacrificing traction. If you want traction and you're hard on a tire, you'll be replacing tires often. There's no getting around that...and if you're easy on the R888s they'll last for over 10k miles. R888s work fine in the rain. I have...

Go right to using Toyo R888s and don't look back.

Bump from the dead! Will billet main caps increase the block stiffness enough to not need to cut down the oil pump drive shaft at all? One person (http://mk3ukr-supra.net/Stroking%207M.htm) had his oil pump shaft break after taking it down...although he might have needed to take it down that...

Can you wiggle the steering wheel back and forth without the tires responding? There's a ujoint in the steering arm in the engine bay, I had it replaced (thanks to a thread on here actually) and the steering wheel is real tight now.

When I removed my A/C earlier this year I couldn't for the life of me find the thread pitch here or on supraforums. I'm not even sure if its metric or BSPT or something else.

I've used the cheapo jaw compression tool with a piece of 3/4" PVC pipe and it is a gigantic pain in the ass. That toyotool is $85 from their website, if I ever need to do the keepers again I'd definitely buy that even if I used it once.

Has anyone used the beech performance dual hanger? They claim it's a bolt in affair, if someone can chime in and say how beech sets up their pumps that'd be a big help.

Do you have to move anything out of the way, control arms etc?

What you're saying is you don't like what I've suggested, but it will work because the ECU corrects itself. Thanks. Also, the speed at which the pintle lifts is related to voltage, not current. You know this. The negative aspects you're trying to refer to aren't as bad as you're making it out...

There's no need to remove the resistor pack when installing high impedance injectors, the injectors will run just fine with it still installed. They are literally plug and play. I ran mine for a few years this way and so have a few other people. High impedance injectors take a slightly longer...

We're on the same page then. Nick has this thing where he jumps into random threads, and despite being intelligent and knowledgeable about a wide range of subjects, chooses to use the forum as his soapbox instead of helping. What exactly are you using for your ECU/daughterboard situation? Are...

You had this exact opinion over on SupraForums as well. While everyone is entitled to opinions, everyone is not entitled to their own facts, and you are an idiot for continuing to ignore those presented to you. Regardless of how fast someone's car is, a divorced DP will spool a turbo (all...

So we should all not use E85 just because you happen to think it's a bad idea and it might disappear in a few years? For a fuel with a higher octane rating?

Checked timing? Everything at 0, TDC?

Did you use your old steering column shaft (in the engine bay)? There's a ujoint on that arm that might have slop in it.

The springs don't rub against the walls of the head. The stock springs fit into the stock retainers perfectly...the comp cams springs require you to almost snap the spring into the retainer. This doesn't affect performance, this doesn't affect longevity, and nothing will rub or wear the head...