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Silicone lasts much, much longer than generic/OEM hoses. No cracking, higher heat tolerance, etc etc...makes removal and re-installation years from now an easy task. The response to that will probably be 'why didn't Toyota go with silicone hoses', which is a stupid argument...so if you're...

After arguing with two places about whether or not these ujoints can be replaced (AND showing them the new joint) I found a third that put it in for me, as well as cut circlip slots in for the next time (which is hopefully never). Mine was falling apart, I could rotate the shafts 30* apart from...

Not to start the MoTeC vs ProEFI debate up here, but I'm wiring my '87 auto up to the ProEFI128, it's very easy. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=106 There are three solenoids we need to control: S1, S2 and SL. S1/S2 dictate the four gears and SL is the...

Put the washers into place BEFORE you install the studs. You are correct, there isn't room to install the washers after the studs are in place. The nuts will fit on last, just barely.

Wasn't hard at all to get running, it was a nice little unit for what it did. Allowed me to easily tune out high/low spots in the AFR map, and there's other EMB programs tha will allow you to make a run and log your AFR, which you can use to go back and modify your map. I never ended up hooking...

Hate to bump old (ish) threads but I can't find a place local to me that will agree to replace the staked in ujoint (let alone admit it can be done). It's starting to piss me off, it shouldn't be any more difficult than saying 'here are the parts, go do it and I'll give you money' but apparently...

Super quick reply, geez. No worries, you have quite a few threads open haha. Thanks!

Bizzump :)

In to find out what happened to it...sorry to hear :( I vote rebuilding it though, what's cleaning everything out, getting the rods/crank checked and new bearings? That's my worst fear as well, nightmares about a freak piece of metal making its way down one of the oil ports in the block and...

I hate when people post obscenely large pictures of their shitty car.

Sweet! Excited. For those still on the stock linkage, it's pretty easy to rotate the linkage 90 degrees and route the cable underneath the IM no?

Aaahhh, and that's how it sits in there. Nice!

I'll send you money right meow for one, it's the only piece that's up in the air I need for my build :D

The upper control arm bushings were the easiest to get out/put in...they pushed out with a c-clamp really easily. The lower control arms I needed to half cut out, half use a vice due to rust and age, it was horrible. Also getting the sleeves out required cutting them with a reciprocating saw...

No, you don't need the metal sleeve. Clean the sleeve area with a brass brush, use some suspension grease and push the new poly bushing in by hand and you're set!

No worries. Just note that the torque spec ARP states is with a specific lubrication (their ARP ultra-torque). If you're using motor oil or something else the torque spec will be slightly different.

Run what ARP says to run, no matter what anyone else says.

I agree with the undercut information...but 1000 kpsi, you might be talking about different units :biglaugh:

Dyno sheet definitely, I'd like to see the curve on this bad boy! Definitely a nice car :)

I know a bunch of official Toyota documents have been scanned and posted up before (not sure if on here or SF, I can't find the thread) that displays weights/lengths/displacements of almost everything related to the car. Almost sure it would be on there, if I can find it.