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I'm kind of curious about this as well, with even a bolt on turbo if you wanted to run E85 one pump won't be enough. Is there something bigger that will drop right in, like the MKIV pump does? Or hey, maybe someone has done dual MKIV pumps.

If you don't remove the ball joints then you'll have to remove/install the bushings with the LCA on the car, which is a pain in the ass.

Take the 10mm bolts off, wiggle the cam cap off. If it won't move tap it with a rubber mallet.

No problems with mine, and I haven't heard of any.

Thanks for the reply Jeff! I had to plug a few of the ports on the thermostat housing and the 3/8 NPT plugs I bought didn't work (duh, they need to be BSPT). Bought a few 3/8 BSPT plugs, ALL of them leaked even with teflon tape. I ended up buying 16x1.5mm plugs and those aren't leaking. I...

Jeff Lange, pretty sure its an M16x1.5 thread pitch. Can you find anywhere that it says its a tapered thread? Those sensors are not tapered, neither are the threads in the housing. A lot of the sensors in the housing are M16x1.5, NPT and BSPT both don't fit.

Yes, distance between the holes on the caliper is 110mm. I did some research a ways back and some Mercedes Benz calipers have the same 110mm distance but haven't mocked any calipers up to see which ones fit.

That's not a good thing at all :biglaugh: Big red flag. When did you buy the turbo? They helping you out at all?

Awesome build so far! If I ever went aftermarket rods I'd jump right to Pauters, but IJ. posted somewhere that they don't have the oil hole on the small end. Is this correct?

ProEFI controls auto transmissions, you don't need the tranny ECU if your standalone is controlling it. Most piggybacks will control ignition/timing/fuel maps, sans the really old stuff but you're going to have to do a lot of splicing and cutting into the harness.

Remember: the first number dictates the weight of the oil at cold temperatures (32*F), the second number dictates the weight of the oil at operating temperatures (~212*F). Like jetjock said, something with a lower weight (5-30 or 0-30) would be fine for winter. Doh, I lied earlier...I use 0-40...

A fiberglass front fender (NOT flared, stock) would be great. I hate looking for used ones and the only new ones you can buy are the flared fenders, which would look weird by themselves. Bolt on front brake kit that fits under a 16" rim. +1 on replacement exterior trim, I have a set I bought...

There's a core fee, I'm assuming you don't have used injectors...which means you'll be paying $70 for each injector. I'd find some used ones for cheap, and get them flow tested and new grommets/o-rings from fuel injector clinic or something like that.

Go on rockauto and look for the brake caliper (front/rear) for the make/model/year of the vehicle in question. The 'centric' branded parts have pictures which include dimensions of the caliper as well as piston diameter.

Arizona Performance has had their kits for sale for quite a while. Revolution Brake also has quite a few kits for the MKIII Supra on their website. For the record, you just described the definition of 'dissipation', the point you were trying to refute, while simultaneously saying it will...

Same thread pitch as stock rear calipers, you don't need to buy anything special, use your old lines.

:biglaugh: I'm glad I'm not the only one who sees it. OP: they won't idle without adjustable cam gears. Do you still have the stock cam gears? Are you on the stock computer?

I have four years and about 50k miles on the hose behind the water pump, and despite numerous overheats (as well as a leaking exhaust manifold gasket) it looks and feels brand new. I've taken it off more than once and just had it off when I took it off my old engine and put it on the one I just...

I'd agree with Dan, more expensive to go with silicone hoses for OEM applications. As far as the OPs question: http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Shop-by-Category/Silicone-Bends-90-Degree-Silicone-Bends/Venair-90-Degree-Silicone-Bend-4-Arms That hose should be used in three places: the 90...

That wasn't my intention, I was guessing jetjock (as usual) would jump in and offer a snide remark but no factual information. It seems he felt compelled to regardless. Silicone (not fluorosilicone) shouldn't be used where it comes into contact with oil or fuel, that's it. Temperature...