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mine was a pain in the ass nbecause of the wire's that go through the upper plenum.after doing injector's i ran all the fuse box and ignitor wire's out the front under the TB.

i'm into it for about 20k not counting buying the car.the only regret i have is not having a better game plan from the start.i did plan on spending some cash on it,just didn't know then what i know now.it could spend money on worst thing's,so it's all good.at the end of the day i still love...

just got price's from yota the other day 90903-63006-77 front bearing $60.61each 90369-43005-77 rear bearing $66.45 each 90311-63001 rear seal $10.72each 90311-57001 rear seal $8.30each getting the bearing race of the hub is hard and can't be done with a hammer

i don't think draining the oil back into the pan is a good idea.it will have condensation in it and could contaminate the oil in your pan.my .02$

you can block of that pipe at the water pump and plug the hose were it enter's back into the head.you can remove the whole pipe.

to me it sounds like shawn kept the chevelle

i try to be curtious.i only bomb the people who are being stupid

i didn't pay to join dtr.i just filled out the info and started posting. i'd like to get my hands on an hx35 to start building my twin's,but would like to get a strong trans in it.i've read about the built trans helping put more power down,just because how loose the converter's are in these...

hey flubyx2,that was a member on diesel truck resources twin set up.i listed his user name in my post.i think it's an hx35 for primary,don't know about the other my truck is an 02 slt laramie quad cab 4x4 auto with an 8 ft box.i have exhaust,intake,edge ez,vulcan big line kit w/draw straw and a...

it was standard length.sorry i didn't keep the part number

the black smoke come's from alot of fuel.all you do is run more boost to clear it up.i have a dodge ram with a cummin's in it.it's pretty funny how fast a 7000lb truck get's moving with all the torque.i go on the forum's and read alot of the thing's people are doing with them.they hold the...

i went to a local ford dealer and bought a bolt so i can remove the whole set-up.now my oil thermastat bolt's directly to the block,then the filter bolt's to that.the bolt is 3/4-16

good little write up for ya http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=49859

in the first pic you can see the keeper's are sitting in the retainer.all you do is put the tip of the tool on the keeper's(it's spring loaded) and push down on the spring.the keeper's will then drop into the retainer.you then just lift up slow and the center peice will hold the keeper's down...

the first pic is getting ready to install the retainer and keeper's.the second pic is of the magnetic tool removing the keeper's and retainer.the third pic is a spark plug removal tool that will remove the seal and re-install it.i also used compressed air to hold the valve from dropping out.just...

here is a pic of the tools that will help to get it done without removing the head

i would want an -10 coming of that tee.probably hard to get the coil pack cover back on though

this is how i set mine up

my jz swap has been done for a few years,all extended.i'm painting the engine bay and would like to clean up the firewall a bit too.i'm just curious about getting it over the trans tunnel.

how hard is it to get the wiring over to the glove box,so the ecu can go where it belong's?must be hard getting it under the dash.i was also thinking of doing the same