Anybody know where there is a write-up on how to replace the valve stem seals on a 1J? I think my friends car may have blown them? Also, how long for a 1st time replacement and what tools are needed? Thanks guys.
Adam
Adam
1J Valve Stem Replacement?
- Thread starter honestabe
- Start date
I have done a 2J and it is not too bad. I found a MK4 online manual that explained it all. It was easy to take the valve springs and retainers out to get to the seals but hard to get them back in. I actually had a machine shop put the springs/retainers back on. There is a video on one of the supra forums of how to replace the seals with the head on the block.
copy-paste from SF:
It's not that hard, just quite some work to get to them. I assume the head is still on the block.
- take out the cams, follow the tsrm for that
- on the piston you will be working on; remove the sparkplug and turn the piston to bdc.
- feed a long enough rope into the cylinder, about 4' will do, and leave it sticking out so you can pull it back out, tie a knot on the end for security.
- turn the piston to tdc untill you feel the resistance of the rope against the head, this will prevent the valves from falling down ;-)
- take out the buckets and springs for that cylinder, also described in the tsrm
Now you're looking at the stem seals.
Best is to use a special pair of plyers which have a 'O' shaped mouth to pull them out.
When you push the new ones on, you should feel a snap twice, then they're on properly. Make sure they're not on tilted.
Repeat for each cylinder.
It should take an unexperienced mechanic about a full day; there's quite some work before you can even take out the cams as you need to remove the distribution belt. One more tip; before removing and de-tensioning the distribution belt, put it into gear or 'P' when you're auto and loosen the cam gear bolts. Only just enough to loosen them not more, saves some hassle later on ;-)
Good luck.
It's not that hard, just quite some work to get to them. I assume the head is still on the block.
- take out the cams, follow the tsrm for that
- on the piston you will be working on; remove the sparkplug and turn the piston to bdc.
- feed a long enough rope into the cylinder, about 4' will do, and leave it sticking out so you can pull it back out, tie a knot on the end for security.
- turn the piston to tdc untill you feel the resistance of the rope against the head, this will prevent the valves from falling down ;-)
- take out the buckets and springs for that cylinder, also described in the tsrm
Now you're looking at the stem seals.
Best is to use a special pair of plyers which have a 'O' shaped mouth to pull them out.
When you push the new ones on, you should feel a snap twice, then they're on properly. Make sure they're not on tilted.
Repeat for each cylinder.
It should take an unexperienced mechanic about a full day; there's quite some work before you can even take out the cams as you need to remove the distribution belt. One more tip; before removing and de-tensioning the distribution belt, put it into gear or 'P' when you're auto and loosen the cam gear bolts. Only just enough to loosen them not more, saves some hassle later on ;-)
Good luck.
the first pic is getting ready to install the retainer and keeper's.the second pic is of the magnetic tool removing the keeper's and retainer.the third pic is a spark plug removal tool that will remove the seal and re-install it.i also used compressed air to hold the valve from dropping out.just be aware that the compressed air can turn the motor over forcing the piston down.
Umm, yeah. I'm not so trusting of myself, nor do I feel like buying those tools right now. I'll just have Kaizen Motorsports do it for me. Last thing I need to do is to fuck up a 1JZ.
Adam
Adam
tsuper92 said:here is a pic of the tools that will help to get it done without removing the head
Does the tool install the springs and keepers back on. I had a bit of trouble trying to get the springs back in and had to take mine to a machine shop for them to get them back on.
in the first pic you can see the keeper's are sitting in the retainer.all you do is put the tip of the tool on the keeper's(it's spring loaded) and push down on the spring.the keeper's will then drop into the retainer.you then just lift up slow and the center peice will hold the keeper's down while letting the spring and retainer come back up. works pretty slick.
OK, ya I just used a 17mm socket and a hammer to get the keepers off. My troubles were getting the spring an keepers back on. I bought a valve spring compressor but I could not find one that worked. Just took my head to a machine shop and had them put it on some kind of valve machine and they got them back on. That is why I am curious as to how to get them back on with the head still on.
Thanks guys. I just got the car, it's only running rich and possibly leaking oil. I'll post pictures in the build category.
Adam
Adam