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So I take it you havnt gap'd the rings yet? If so you need to gap them..don't just put them in! Bring the block and pistons to the shop and the machinist can determine where they go...then he can double check with the plastiguage to make sure the bearings are correct. Like I said..you're...

1. Never clean parts without being organized before cleaning 2. Never work with a friend unless yall have a system discussed before hand 3. Clean one thing at a time and put it down back in order in which it is to be installed 4. Scribe the order # in the bottom of piston in the meaty area...

Cause our cars aren't electronicly boost control'd stock....our cars are old as dirt...and our ecu isn't "remap'able"....it's not expensive to make 300+-hp on a well maintained turbo supra in mostly stock form with a stock fuel system and afm...all you need is a boost controler, better downpipe...

And if you don't break anything you aren't trying hard enough!!

From my limited experience, most turbo cars are crappy off the line...but that headgasket may effect power by 5-6 hp but that is so minor it's not worth the trash talk of "gutless". My point is don't make it sound like the car was a smoke machine with the stock gasket turned granny mobile from...

Then you have a personal problem! That headgasket isn't going to effect power enough to notice.

I say either take the dirty pan to the machine shop and have them hot tank it....or take the dented pan to a local body shop and see if they can pull the dent without drilling (welded stud and slide hammer). Or even better, have a pan modified to hold 3 more quarts of oil and better baffels!

I'm hurt...timing cover decked itself:-( lol your car sounds like pure sex now! Can't wait till you get a good tune and see what this bitch can do!

No problem!

No you can't flip it as the bolt holes are countersunk! You can't resurface it either as that requires cutting the aluminum where the pp bolts to....if it's a lightweight fw then you HAVE to buy a new friction plate...only solid steel fw's can be resurfaced.

i aint got anything clever to say at the moment.....so ill just post just so i can say i was involved in some way shape and or form!

that is true.....that is why you make sure everything is clean and dry before you install a headgasket.....once the head is clamped down (on very smooth surfaces) there is no way moisture let alone air will get get past it....not to mention that metal headgaskets these days are coated in...

stock cams are coated in babit (sp) same shit that crank and rod bearings are made from.....no it cant be "polished" but can be recoated for big bucks! most just roll with it anyway all scratched as our cam lube system kinda sucks!

it will dry after awhile...few hours out in the sun will bake it dry....my trans has been in my car for a year or more now and still looks like aluminum covered in sex!

Daaaaaaamn

You check codes?

^fuckin A! Makes sense!

As a machinist my personal thought is...for a bone stock rebuild a torque plate is not needed...BUT if you have any future goals of big power about 500hp a plate would be wise! With the amount the arp or stock bolts stretch I can only see the block deforming .0003" if that...considing on a...

Lmao...seriously!?!?!? Go ahead and install the thing...see if we care! When your motor blows I'll be the first to rub it in that you should have listened to rayal

Which is why I told him to not over analize...yes there will be a point where it just won't be able to breath anymore air and proceed to chop air causing massive turbulance ect.... Another way to explain this would be why helicopter can't hover for prolong periods very close to the ground as...