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The starter is flush to the mounting location. The battery shouldn't need to be jumped because the starter spins quickly (as the gears skip), but I tried it anyways to no avail. I'm really getting frustrated. Does anyone else have any ideas?

I'm gonna go look at the starter I took off just to make sure. EDIT: I have theold one here in front of me...there is only the two conncetions. I remember the new starter had another connection but I had nothing to connect to it so I left it alone. Can anyone shed some light on this?

3 wires? I know of only the two. One is a brown plastic clip with a spade connector inside, the other is directly beside it and is a bolt. I didn't have to disconnect any others when I pulled the previous starter so I'm not sure which ones you are talking about. Also, I cannot just the ones...

I got the ECU grounded finally...my arm will never be the same. Now I have a new problem. When I turn the key, the starter does not engage the flywheel. It no longer just clicks, it sounds like its spinning and the starter gear is hitting the teeth on the flywheel. I don't know if that...

Lookie what I found...now to dislocate my arm to get to it. LOL

Thanks guys. This is why I love this forum. That was exactly what I was looking for.

HAHAHA. My battery died and I don't have jumper cables with me at school. My GF is bringing me some tonight so we will soon see if it runs. I just don't know why I have an extra bolt.

The new Pontiac Solstice convertible thing. They have a tranny that can be swapped into your car. I have no idea where to find one or how much they cost. If I were you I would buy a used R154.

I recently replaced the starter in my 88 manual and while doing so I unbolted some things in the engine bay. This took place over the course of a week because I have limited tools and limited time per day. When I put everything back together I have 1 bolt left over and I can see a place for it...

YES!!!! Clean and flow test. Replace/rebuild any that are not in spec.

he bought all that for $800? I doubt it but if he did he got a smoking deal...good for him.

If you were closer I would make you an offer on that car. I have a Mk2 with a mint grey interior, a good drivetrain and a rusted body. I could make one good car out of them. Good luck with it.

Glad I could help you come to the right conclusion.

I vote this to be the dumbest thread in history. Who gives a fuck that a T/A can be fast in the 1/4. It doesn't take a brain surgeon to figure that one out. Why do people like you come onto forums just to talk shit. I guess it makes you feel good that your friends car is fast.:3d_frown:

Thats about the most open ended question I've read in a while. Congrats

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38358&highlight=crankcase+catch Read and comprehend...your car will thank you.

I've heard that before. I wasn't sure if the Momo needed it or not. Is there a link to a thread that describes how to do this?

My wheel feels great. I have felt a Momo race before and there is a noticeable differance but mine doesn't feel low quality. It is quite smooth and the stitching is very good. I have no regrets with the steering wheel. The hub on the other hand, I hate. I can't seem to make my horn work...

I intend to eventually move the buttons fron the stock wheel to the TEMS location. I no longer have TEMS so I won't miss the buttons. Also I never use cruise anyways so I really don't miss it while I make my design/plans.

I can't afford the Momo race I want so I bought a cheap one off ebay. Cost me like $40 and I got a hub adapter for about $25. I felt it was worth it because the leather on the stocker was well worn.