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I have one, its in GB and I was looking for 75$ but could go cheaper on it for a supra guy. My for sale thread has pics of it.

So has anyone gone and taken anything out of the car in the junk yard yet? I am interested in all the rear hatch plastics as mine are a little scuffed up/cracked from the previous owner. Plus if its 3e5 in good shape I should probably get some body stuff off it too.

Also, I wanted to point out that pad area is NOT used to determine anything with regard to hydralic system bias. The important parameters are Total caliper piston area, master cylinder area, brake pedal ratio and pedal input force. I wish I could find a link with all this stuff to post on...

Supraguru is correct in all of his statements on how you optimize a brake system Any of the engineers in here will understand why what he is saying is correct. Slower rate of deceleration (rain) = more rear bias (less wight transfer equals more tractive force on the rear tires for braking...

Truthfully, the amount of dive doesn't matter either. What does matter for the brake proportioning front and rear is the CG location (longitudinal and height) and the acceleration of the vehicle. Then proportioning should be set up by determining the weight transfer on a max deceleration...

I actually disagree with you on this, I beleive there is a light shadow grey and there is the almost black shadow gray, at least for the 91/92 model years. I will find some pictures and post them up. There are some good ones showing the difference in the "red supra" thread, but maybe I am...

was it the dark shadow grey leather?

Call Kurt at Elmhurst toyota, 50$ and you get a brand new piece. I have an old starting to crack one if you want it but i would recommend just purchasing the new one.

I think you should look at what Jdub quoted as your plugs are not listed there...again there is a reason the 4644's and 6097's are not listed there.

6097's were wrong too, iirc those are the copper plugs 2jz guys use, and the plugs are different shapes (for the electrical connectors) on 2jz vs. 7m. I personally run Denso IQ20's and love them. I have about 9k miles on mine and they still perform great seeing boost regularly.

where you there watching lupe? That guy is awesome, didn't see the supra and I didn't bring my car there.

I have a stock exhaust if you need one of those.

Yeah, it was ridiculous at the track today. Best 60 foot was a 2.2 but only ran a 14.9 tops in the 1/4 mile, lots of 2.2xx and 2.3 launches. With my mods I was expecting about a second less than that(1/4 mile time)...Pretty dissapointed...I guess I will be going back on a cooler less humid day...

Do what I have done on occasion and just hook it up through the hood and window. No need to route it through the car. Thats what I would do for a quick verification on the gauges.

Anyone going to GLD tomorrow? Im going to be coming down with my 92, my friends bringing a 505 whp C5, and a few guys with bikes are coming as well. Any other Wi members planning on going to the 5-10 pm drags?

I don't know what else to say. I have been trying to say this and I guess you just don't get how I am saying this. For the last time horsepower>torque.

hmm fun car (5-spd) or boring car Th-350...seems cut and dry to me. I don't want to offend the drag racers but autos are just so boring except in a straight line.

Please explain, I am not familiar with this. So above 60 psi the pump internally bypasses back to the tank?

Uhh, so how do you know when you would receive a knock off or a genuine pump. I see them varying from 120 to 170 a pump on line. I just checked Elmhurst Toyotas section on SF and it looks like they are about $200 from them.

I am going mk4 TT pump when I eventually have to switch from the OEM. Nothing beats OEM Denso/Toyota quality. And the lack of noise with the OEM MK4 pump is another reason to go that route. I have seen them online for 125$ brand new so I would just look around.