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Mine started leaking at the water outlet as well. pretty easy to fix. I would recommend replacing the other cooling lines in the area when fixing this as well since they are easier to get to.

It has been discussed many times, but it is a common consensus that detonation is the root of all evil that causes a properly torqued OEM hg to fail. As long as you are not detonating you should be able to make 300+ on the oem gasket. I have been running my car @ 10-12 lbs for ~10,000 miles...

^3...that or get an EBC. I did the shimming of the gate and definitely prefer an easily adjustable boost control method rather than the shims.

Yeah I definitely agree with this post. If you don't call them it is likely they will not respond, I have tons of emails to him regarding my brake order (rotors/lines/pads) without a single response (ordered in June, finally have the rotors, lines and rear pads-about a week ago) but somehow the...

Nah, I have to disagree with this. MK4>MK3>SC Stock for stock I think the 89-92's look the best but with subtle body mods the mk4 is just untouchable...Hell even lowered on better wheels stock body they are fucking awesome

haha, that is true, we need to start bombing those damn things. What was the color of the mint MK3 and where did you see it? I just saw a black MK4 turbo DT the other day. I have seen a couple other mk3/4's as well. Currently there is a mint auto MK1 for sale at the west side qdoba for 4250...

your not understanding my quote, the guy is asking about JDM motors and the response from someone was the difference between 87-88 and 89+ speedos on USDM vehicles. I was saying his response was a failure not kph.

I think he is referring to the motor itself...Also JDM speedos would be in KPH...Double Fail :)

It doesn't matter what direction it is pointed, a screw is a screw so all the adjustable ssqv's will be the same. That said I don't know the correct answer.

I don't have first hand knowledge of this but I would guess with stock timing advance, the bigger turbo, and that much boost, you may be at the knock limit of the fuel you are using. Hopefully one of the tuning gurus jumps in.

If its properly supported its fine...That does not mean jerry rigged is proper.

Mk4 mounts are cheap, I got them from Curt at Elmhurst toyota for 57$ each. Its the 89+ fluid filled stock mounts that are ridiculously expensive.

If 89+ why not just go with 98 Mk4 mounts. they are plenty strong, almost direct fit (have to grind off one locating pin - 10 minutes of work) and only feel slightly more harsh then stock. Or just go with TRD mk4 mounts for that extra stiffness. I don't think I would go solid in a street car...

i agree, 7MGTE is very simple to get out and barely creates any mess for me. Just make sure you have the oil drained and be careful to keep the filter upright as you lower it...If the car is still really hot it is more difficult but you can let it sit and cool down after the oil has been...

I won't be able to make it this year. I've been to 2k6 and 2k8 so odd years just dont work out for me. Hopefully next year.

sounds like the valve is faulty if your doing the test correctly.

those CF parts look awesome doom. Any chance of getting a wiper cowl locally in CF?

well thickness is the most important dimension assuming the mounts on the ARB are in the same location (distance from axis of rotation to the drop link mount position - the torque arm). On whitelines this is what is different so a true comparison based on just thickness is tough. Looking at...

well I have engineered race car suspensions so I am familiar with a car being too stiff from ARB's...a stock 91/91 MK3 is no where near too stiff from the arb.

No, I do not think im seeing the tail of the ecu switch to open loop. At cruise/idle it is 14.5-14.9 consistently. When this is occurring (WOT, rpm in the 1500-3000 rpm range) the A/F's are in the mid 12's to thirteens, and it appears the car is running open loop at this time.