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in the kit, at least according to the replacement parts, it uses a 1/2'' NPT to 3/8'' hose barb. so you want a....... and you use sealant on the NPT side (into the filter housing adapter) but NOTHING on the AN fittings, they create a leak proof seal if installed correctly. 1/2''NPT to -10AN...

clean the surfaces with a clean rag and some acetone. i used a wirewheel to clean off all of the hold gasket (on the pan) and a razor blade for the block side. and i would get some degreaser, clean the pan out, then get some brake cleaner and blast the shit out of it. so that way you dont...

its different for different countys... and it has a lot to do with population. which is why way north CA doesnt have such bad laws. my friends dad registered all of his trucks/car/motorcycles up north so he doesnt have to smog... lucky bastard...

its good now.

i totally thought he said test only... i didnt even catch that. ref = fail. just put everything back to stock. my friends have been failed for boost gauges... final miles eh? most of my trips are less than 5... haha. but im not tooooo concerned with the whole 20psi thing... i do have...

i have a hoist... and a stand... so it would only make sense for ME to pull the engine... i could pull it crazy fast. haha. i think it depends if you A) have the room for an engine in your garage B) have the time to pull the engine C) trust yourself that you want break anything D) have...

thats what i meant... i sit in my car, with the key in... i dont walk away from a running car unless im running inside for 10seconds, walking into my garage, and thats about it... haha. i always have my stereo on, so i like to look at my gauges and what not... but i just noticed that for the...

shouldnt, just have to be flexible. if not, you can always go from underneath to look at them... but my car is different, cause i have my alternator relocated, and i made a custom crank case hose, so i have a ton more room than most people... but its doable. just be patient and make sure...

i enjoy listening to my car. so that way, when something is worng, i hear it before it gets too bad... or i catch it before something else happens.

if the knock sensors are throwing a code it pulls timing and makes your car a honda... haha. not to mention the ecu goes into limp mode because its one of those codes. get some working knock sensors, swap one out, see if problem goes away, or it may be the wiring... check your sparkplugs...

you need a new smog tech. i passed with a turboxs bov, open air intake, and some other little things... nothing outrageout though. but he didnt sweat any of it, car passed, had a cat, was safe, so he signed off on it. in all honesty though that tech was being a dick... next time just toss it...

well... if your going to wrap a BIC downpipe you might have to worry becuase his pipe has like 8 pieces welded together, and its not stainless... so that might rust if you dont coat the pipe. but your suppose to coat the pipe before you wrap it. and all of the "chinaman" pipes are one solid...

upgrade

i plan on wrapping my chinaman ddp. i dont see why not. there arent any welds that will be covered up, its one long pipe from the outlet to the 3'' flange that meets to the cat... haha. just make sure you paint it with some VHT to protect it before you wrap it.

fans dont matter at highways speeds. which is why you dont hear them roaring full blast. fans cool the car when theres not enough air going past the radiator.

whats the definition of "huge"... cause you can go buy some 4 gauge wire for like $2/FT and it will gladly take the amps and current... especially seeing as how the stock wires are what... 8 gauge? maybe 6... lol i do agree that the OP is a little lazy, and not so smart if its a daily...

yup, yo need to insulate the radiator since its a giant aluminum anode (atleast thats what i was told) and it will make the inside rust super fast.

wtf? down shifted past 3rd?... uhh... theres no point if your just going to downshift to 3rd, it barely has any amount of engine braking. i always downshift to 2nd coming to a light... its part of the reason why i bought a stick. its so i could downshift and save my brakes. why do you even...

my bet is that your sub and amp, plus everything else is draining your battery, and since it slowly discharges, and due to its size, it doesnt keep the voltage up very well. not to mention our alternators dont handle a ton of electronics all that well. i make it a habit to turn down my music...

i think its rather retarded... randy posted up a back to back dyno graph... wtf else do you want! its a DOWNPIPE. its not cylinder flow through the intake and exhaust valves... this is serisouly dumb. go make up the solid works model for the head, at least thats useful.