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what you could try, is keep clicking over to the "start" position on the key, and just do it like 15 times in a row... if not, make sure all of your vac lines are hooked up and you have all of your VSV's under the intake manifold. one of them is for hot starting.

i have a table in my house, we have like... 8 different sticks. ranging in weight, and varying a little in length. my dad i consider to be really good, he can make shots that i cant even think of half the time. i'll bet him on the 8 ball that he cant make a shot... and he pulls through every...

sadly i fell to the scheme of the awesome colors... :3d_frown:

look at the wall thickness for sure! my little one are all ok, but like the ones for my power steering kinda crimp... so i need to replace them.

yeah i've seen too many collapsed vacuum lines now... especially the big diameter ones that are used on the BOV and things of that nature. im going with a few rolls of good year emission/ vacuum lines next time around. and there black... so there more stealth than the "bling bling"...

doesnt the weight of the wheels also play a role?...

upper port on the coolant/thermostat thing is suppose to go to the charcoal canister. you may not have one.. afpr should be manifold pressure, as it sees boost it rasies the pressure.

and for all of you that didnt know. there are a ton of vendors that are getting the AEM for KILLER prices... i've seen 205shipped on the dsm fourms, and i've seen another company BEATING that price!!!!! so i really dont see why you would buy a gauge/kit thats just newer... the AEM works just...

well according to this threads from previous months. he has a T67 turbo and some 680cc injectors... soooo i would really suggest the -10 then. this man is power hungry! haha

still would like them to post a price.. either for all or for each... dont matter which...

14.4-15 at idle anywhere from 13-14 cruising and 11.5 under boost at more than 75% throttle. figured that was implied... but i guess not. haha

jesus... have you been living in a hole? they send you a check for a crazy amount. and then tell you to send the rest of it back to them. then the bank finds out its a fake check and your out your own money because the bank wants to get paid. and normally this is all done with people out of...

any idea on pricing? and would you offer a kit with no p/s pulley too?

you could have stored codes from before. like the fuel cut code only comes on for a few seconds (while fuel cutting) and then goes away... but the light doesnt stay on or flash.

theres no check valves in our PCV... especially the ones on the valve covers, those are just vents back to the intake.

dont boost leaks also cause fuel cut?... if so then it will throw the fuel cut code. and its always good to show people how to check them, that way they'll know in the future too. but if its just a boost leak, check the coupler between the throttle body and the "3000" pipe... and also...

the 4.9 was designed as a more accurate oxygen sensor... at least thats how bosch's website makes it out to be.... and driftmotion sells the "wideband bosch" o2 sensor for 79....

sub $2 for 87... makes me miss my n/a supra now... paid 2.11 from shell yesterday,

check codes per the TSRM. and get use to going to this site. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/default.aspx how to check codes: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=23 list of codes...

I've tuned two cars with K-Pro, not really sure if you would consider it a stand alone, but just learn how and what effects what... and understanding the motor is always a plus. but i just did it, there was a learning curve i like to say with each car, but my one friend is now on a stable 11.5:1...