Are you planning on keeping the stock mani and just getting an adapter to make the turbo fit on it? I just went to a 67mm T4 turbo and had full exhaust done, it cost an arm and a leg, but that's because I had a tubular manifold made.
The oil pressure sender is right near the oil feed line for the turbo, (where it comes off the block). I would check to see that it is plugged in. If it is, you can try grounding that wire and your gauge should max out. Don't leave it grounded for too long, it can mess with the calibration of...
Yes I have mine wired up and just need to try it, but it won't be for a while. I'm also installing a maft-pro, so I kinda need to tune it first. The Bee*R will work on a 7M, it's just how you wire it is the question. I feel confident in how I wired mine, but I can't tell you if it works yet. I...
I wired mine up using this info.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74363
I know it's for the 1jz, but it tells you what wires you need to hook into. IGF and NE. Yellow goes to NE and Green goes to IGF. So you just need to use an ecu pinout for the 7M and find those wires. The...
500rwhp might be hard to reach with a 60-1. I'm gonna go Maft-pro in a couple weeks, from an SAFC-II. I didn't like the way the SAFC managed fuel. Part throttle gets too lean under boost, because of the way the afc works.
Um, something is wrong with your first calculator or a value is wrong. For some reason the calculator thinks you have a 2.0L engine. We have 3.0L. Don't know what's going on.
A stock rebuild, as long as it's done right, can handle that amount of power. You will also need an AFPR and a pump to go along with it. You will also need a wideband to tune all this, unless you are going to have someone else do it. How much boost are you planning on running?
Start checking power before and after the relay. Check and see how far the power gets before it stops. If you're not getting power on the pump side of the relay, then you have to find out why the relay isn't getting triggered.
I guess the only way to tell if you have oil pressure would be to attach a gauge to the port where the sending unit is or pull off a cam cover and start it up to see if you have oil pressure.
I'm not sure what I get in town, because I usually drive it hard and the gas seems to go away fast. On the freeway, with the cruise set at 70-75mph I get 28mpg.
The first thing that most guys who have built high horsepower engines will tell you is to use a torque plate and make sure the timing belt tensioner is installed when you have the cylinders bored and honed. I would also look into the oil pump supply kit that arizona performance makes. I have one...
You said in your very first post that the car sputters until you floor it and then it goes away. Does this mean it doesn't do it if you floor it in the begining? I'm kinda unclear on what exactly you are doing when it does this? I would also check all your intercooler couplings and pipes...
Yeah, I wouldn't mess with the greddy timing belts. I personally don't see what all the hype is about. When I rebuilt my motor, it had a greddy belt on it and I swapped it out for a gates belt. The greddy was still in good shape but I could get a new gates belt for about $15.
Well unless you ordered a toyota starter motor and really want a new one I would cancel your order. I would be willing to bet that it's just the starter contacts that are bad. They are extremely cheap to replace and easy to do also. Even your starter motor with new contacts will probably be...
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