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Thanks. The guy also tapers the ends of the valve guides. I will be taking it apart as soon as I get the right valve spring compressor. I might lap it also and definitely clean some areas for better oil drainage. --Ron

Here are 2 larger, clearer images. LMK if you need to see more. port1 port2

Well I don't know if I can with my camera. But I'll try. I know I could have done this also but didn't wanna chance it with my only cylinder head. I trust the guy that did this and he actually said this is actually almost like a stage 4 but not quite. He knows the car is going to be street...

Cylinder head is done with Ferrea stuff, 1mm OS valves, Stage III port, etc.

I cannot view the pictures but from your description, The crank position sensor is the one behind the big pulley and it reads a 12 tooth wheel (at least on the 2jz, but I think this is the same as the 1J) for the reference signal. The two on the cylinder head are for sync signal (cam/valve...

They should be work fine for oil lines. Ron

Generally, those type of fittings are for one particular type of hose (push-on) and I don't think they are offered in steel braded. I have used that kind of fittings for my power steering cooler lines with no problems. But I used the blue purosil hose with them and still clamped them to be safe...

Yes, that's about 1mm overbore so 84mm(motor). Depending on the MHG brand, you can get the same size bore (better) but I think most are larger than 84mm. HTH.

Thanks Duane, you know I'm always willing to help a friend out whenever I get the chance ;) --Ron

They are Cunningham rods and the rifle drilling was an option. Ron

It may be just the angle of the picture but I see an offset. Either way, you have them mounted right. Good luck on this build up :bigthumb:

Thanks for the comments guys. Mark, the valve is a standalone unit. The dry sump oil pump is also the vacuum pump in this setup. The vacuum valve is of course adjustable to limit the vacuum to the optimum setting. It just leaks when it reaches the desired vacuum (like the pop-off valve for...

If it gets done and if it's running right by then, yes. --Ron

Thanks Mark and others. The valve is from Peterson Fluid Systems. They make/sell all kinds of dry sump system stuff. I may also put a pop-off valve on the intake manifold, not sure yet. Ron.

Yes, the bearing notches go on the left side, that is the only indication for the aftermarket rods if they don't have the big end squirters (which is the case with eagle and carrillos) The valve pockets on the pistons should also indicate intake and exhaust side if the wrist pin hole is not...

Yes, getting the right amount of vacuum has been proven to make as much as 15 HP, could be exaggerated but that's I heard. Virtually no blow by gases :)

Welded the vacuum regulator on the valve cover last night. This is to maintain an ideal vacuum in the crankcase. No Positive Crankcase Vent anymore as far as I know with this system.

My supra key works for my Datsun Z and corolla :D --Ron

Nice video Duane. Yeah, it's hard to get traction even at low 26psi boost :D Can't wait 'til you run 40 psi ;) j/k of course as always :D

Right front corner of the engine bay. That's the plan, for now. You'll see how, when my radiator is done ;) Thanks guys