Search results

Thanks guys :D

As mentioned by 90T04, the coolant through the q45 helps with the high idle when cold and drops it down when at normal temps. You might need to adjust it a few times as we did with Duane's, to get it to idle the way you want when cold and hot. Especially without the isc, I think you will need to...

Just hook up the 2 coolant lines originally going to the ISC to the 2 fittings on the TB. Just plug the two small vac. nipples. --Ron

Hey Nate, speak for yourself, I'm not the one sleeping in the garage!! :D Thanks guys. I have no plans for my 7m motor yet. The clearance under the motor is most likely going to be the same. The part of the pan that is right above the crossmember is only about 2.5 inches deep and that's not...

Just adding a couple more pictures. Nothing much done during the past week.

I am with Brian on this. I am actually going with a bigger tire (width wise) next time out. 26 x 11.5 x 16. I have never had any issues. Maybe it is the offset of the wheel which is not helping? :dunno: Oh I currently run 26 x 10.5 x 16 M/T ET Streets Edit (This is Duane on Ron's puter)...

Nate's will be at my place for the fab'ing and welding work, maybe for some wiring also. Just like yours, Duane. If you guys promise to help each other, then I can work on mine :D

The fan is a Spal unit, it's what C&R racing uses on most of their radiators. I think the one I have is advertised to flow 1400 cfm. Soapra, sounds like your project is gonna be sick! I had the same goals in mind when I started. Allan, the cams are HKS 272's.

chopped liver!!! :D j/k Yeah I guess I wasn't completely alone.

Sorry, I missed this. C&R radiators. --Ron

Thanks Nate. I work fast when I'm left alone :D Got the 1/2" 304 main header flange so that means I'll start fabricating my header soon :)

Thanks. Torqued down the head today. L19 head studs... Head torqued down to 97 ft/lbs.

Vegas? As long as it gets done (running with no issues and tuned) before then, I'll be there. Installed crankshaft and pistons/rods last night. Pro-Gram billet mains with Power Enterprise bearings Carrillo Rods and Jun/Cosworth pistons.

Wesco autobody. Not hi-temp. But acrylic urethane or enamel will work. Just use epoxy primer and prep the block right. I used the same stuff on my datsun/nissan block (15 plus years) and it is still on there. I used it on my 7m too. If you want engine block hitemp specific paint, Dreamer's Rods...

:D :D This is "mazda classic red", not chevy orange.

Your other sig was much more cooler than this one. PUT IT BACK please :biglaugh: LOL Duane As title says "my house" so it is mine then :icon_razz Edit: Duane at Ron's place again. (Sorry about that)

100 grit for the block. Takes 1-2 hours depending on how smooth it was from the machine shop. I stop lapping when all machining marks are gone. BTW, I prepped the block last night with some metal cleaner and metal conditioner. I primered it this morning and will most likely spray the color...

With the probe on the number 6 header runner (about 3-4 inches from head port) As shown in the above image: 3000 rpm 12.4 MAP 80 MPH 5th gear 14.4 a/f 713 C egt, about 1300 F Ignition timing (affects EGT's) is around 36 deg

more pictures... Showing off the new billet oil cap. ... ...