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Sounds like you'll get yours done first. My motor is far from being complete. and all I have for my header is this so far. If you have a source for a one piece main header flange in 304 or 321, 1/2 inch thick for the 2j, please LMK. Not to mention I still need to plan the modification on the oil...

Yeah I read it, there's not much in that write up. all general info :) Thanks. --Ron

Thanks for the input Sean. I appreciate it. Ron

Posted this at the 2 other forums and didn't get an answer yet. I might get some help from the 1jz/2jz guys here? Here it is: To the guys revving their motors at say ~10,000 rpm or anything higher that stock limits, what did you raise your maximum oil pressure to? or do you need to? I know...

Looks good! :bigthumb: But is there no room to route the pipe from the turbo down instead of going back up like that? Or that's how you want it? --Ron

Dummy pump showed up today from Barnes. New one will soon get here :) This shows how it will be installed with custom brackets Oh yeah, a KRC tandem power steering pump will mount behind the Barnes. --Ron

Thanks guys for the responses. I'm pretty sure I can use the numbers given. I do have the 1j brackets with the 92 mounts. Mock up long block is in the bay but it wants to tilt down forward without the tranny. Ron

Yeah, it's for the 2j. I am trying to measure things up for the dry sump setup and other stuff. Ron

Hi guys, I am trying to set the motor in the bay without the transmission. Can somebody PLEASE give me a measurement to see how the motor will sit? I am not so sure if it is just level to the ground. I don't have a stock crank damper so I can't use that as a reference. Maybe use the front tab on...

DC tig only. Will not weld aluminum. I think it's just like that one at the harborfreight link. You also won't be able to control your heat via pedal. "I" wouldn't buy one. Ron

Over 400 but close enough. Top two sound like will do it for you. http://store.cyberweld.com/milmigwel.html

I agree, if you are going to be dealing with mostly aluminum, go with TIG. You can't go wrong with a Miller, ESAB or Hobart. I have a Miller syncrowave 250 dx and it meets ALL my welding needs. Welding hood, I have a 9000 Speedglas also, very nice and light. Check out cyberweld.com for some...

I figured it would be a bit noisy because of the scavenge lines sucking oil and air. But we'll see. I may have an idea on the tank location. Ron

IJ, I don't know yet :) Yeah stock A80 chassis. But if it does not fit that, I figured it won't fit the A70 either. The bullish one is made by ARE, it's cast aluminum. The other one is by Moroso. They both said notching the stock crossmember may be needed but they are not sure. Ron

I called a couple places that make them and they are not made for stock chassis/crossmember. Do you know anything different?? Thanks!

Thanks for that info. I will still do it although I am now going with a dry sump setup. I've already planned on the modification needed to be done with the oil pan and block. A 5 stage Barnes pump is on its way. Ron

boost solenoid means either AEM or motec :D which one is it??

Yeah, this is just something to do while waiting on something else to do :D Do you know how much clearance there is between the face of the seal and the back of the timing gear? less than .25 icnch? Ron

Justin, thanks for the info on the wiseco coating. I may most likely go with the casidiam coating. BTW, I did some inspection on the oil pump and found a couple things I could improve so I did. Here's a picture of a couple pumps taken apart. The oilports have sharp turns/corners where the oil...

Hmm, I do have a 2-door '76 corolla. It's already quick with the 2tc though.