Pretty much finished it....lots more I want to do but it's currently road worthy....want to hook up a catch can, full flow oil cooler setup, so on and so forth but for now stock works:-)
My tial Q did that with the stock unpainted spring....not good as it will let unfiltered unmetered air in if using a stock afm! At idle the bov stay open about 1/4"! Switched to the pink spring and now it's perfect!
That hose is known to fail...it's so close to the exhaust! I purchased a new one from Toyota and it cost about $20.....personally I would run anything but a Toyota hose in that area!
Because our double wishbone suspension geometry already has a progressive design using linear springs.....add a progressive spring on an already mechanical progressive system and you have fubar!
I HATE my eibachs and anybody who says they are great at handleing is either in denial or really has...
so shes running pretty good as of now! i was having a hard time getting it to idle perfectly and the afr's where all over the place....wasnt getting codes so just for shits i texted the previous owner and asked him how old the gas was....last time he "topped" it off was in 08 but half the tank...
Clutch break in is more/less a myth! Clutch isn't going to break just cause you didn't break it in....break in is just to make sure the pressure plate and flywheel bed in proper with the disk to get the best enguagement!...other than that the 500+ mile myth is a joke.
The problem was a bad connection in the bundle of wires behind the dash next to the drivers kickpanel fuse box....bypassed it and works great!
Left to do:
spark plug wires
mount exhaust (need cat or test pipe)
flush fluids
radiator over flow container
rad cap
inspection
insurance
registration
My Full exhaust system "retail" would cost $1,180 ish....blitz nur spec cat back $650, cat $80, bic divorced downpipe $450!
I've spent about $700 on it as I did a trade for the blitz nur spec.
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