In the first picture, that's not the PCV ;). That's the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) and there is no reason to block that off on the stock ECU. That port needs a hose routed back to the accordion tube. In the second and third pictures, that is not how the PCV should be routed on a turbo motor...
Yes, you definitely don't want your PCV system blocked. An improperly set up PCV system can pressurize the crankcase enough under boost to pop the dipstick out and have other bad side effects like you are describing. Just route your PCV like it should be stock.
On a side note, I replaced my...
OK, I'll try to bleed the brakes again tomorrow. It's just that I've gone through LOTS of brake fluid already and the lines have bled clean for quite a while now. I'm bleeding in this order: RR, LR, RF, LF. On the wilwood calipers I bleed the outer first then the inner one (though I have tried...
I'm not sure why you think I bled the lines improperly? I've tried both two-man bleeding and pressure bleeding and both have yielded the same results. That said, obviously something is wrong and I likely still have air in the lines, but do you have any suggestions to get all of the air out? I...
Here is a video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUWUD4fg8Qo
It seems like a vacuum leak in the booster diaphragm to me. I'm still not sure that is the cause of my spongy pedal though. I'm going to try bleeding the lines again today.
I don't have a vacuum pump handy right now, but it seems to hold vacuum fine after the car is shut off. It takes 3-4 pumps to get the pedal hard again. There is even some residual vacuum after it sits overnight.
Yes.
I may be wrong about this, but wouldn't a bad booster cause a hard pedal? I can't see how a bad booster could cause any softer of a pedal than a properly working one, but then again I am not a mechanic and have no direct experience with this stuff so I only have my knowledge of how the system...
So I finished installing my front big brake kit from Arizona Performance, and bled the system. Everything went well, but the brake pedal was very mushy when the engine was running. It would go almost to the floor (felt like it bottomed out in the master cylinder first?) with enough pressure. So...
I have no direct experience with the turbo yet, but I'm really thinking about going with the borg warner S300SX 83/75. Very similar to the GT35R in spool, but costs less and flows more at higher boost levels. See my build thread for some discussion on that series turbo. Good luck!
I saw a nice 89+ Grey/Silver Supra at Mid Ohio SCC over the weekend during the LeMans/Indy races. Looked stock, but was very clean with no rust and it was driving into the infield parking (before the bridge if you are familiar w/ the track). Anyone on here?
I think you've made up my mind, that's the turbo I want. :icon_razz I'd like to have a good responsive street car that will see some road course time. I'm not sure what A/R I want yet, but I might go with the 1.00 as well since I'd like to run slightly higher boost levels w/ a meth kit.
Do...
I agree, it seems like a great turbo for a 3 liter engine. I'll have to browse through the replies in that thread.
Thanks!
Never noticed that thread on supraforums. Thanks for the link...now I have more reading to do! :p
So I was curious about the BW turbos and did a little research last night. As you mentioned Sinistr, the BW S300SX 83/75 seems like a very capable turbo. It flows more than a 35R (especially at higher boost) but still spools exactly the same (WITH journal bearings!). See the following...
Thanks! I assume BW = Borg Warner? If so no, I haven't looked into those turbos too much. I don't hear of too many people running them (at least on Supras). Do you have a good resource for info on them? I do love the whistle that Borg Warners make!
I'd check for vacuum leaks and unmetered air leaks between the AFM and throttle body. What's your timing set at? Do you have a wideband and/or boost gauge? (I'm guessing not on the boost gauge since you're NA but it never hurts to ask ;) ) These can help with troubleshooting.
Yeah I might just try a Holset. It likely doesn't spool quite as well as a 35R (no ball bearings), but I'm wondering if the difference in spool is worth ~$1000. I think I'll go with a T4 manifold (using a T3-T4 adapter for the Holset) so I can still swap/upgrade turbos easily. I'd like to make...
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