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Oh, so like a dune buggy. That would be pretty cool. If you had a rusted out parts car you could probably get 90% of what you need from the car (steering column, wiring, seats...).

Hrm, I don't like autolite plugs personally... I run NGK V-power plugs for a MKIV turbo, except one step colder.

I'll have to get some newer ones, all I have are one or two I snapped of it when we were digging it out of the garage my uncle had it in. It hasn't changed much in the past 2 years since then. All I've done with it so far is clean it out, rebuild the carb, change the fluids and put some scrap...

lol, titanic arms are ok with me. It's just a cruiser, no speedy driving with this one. Main reason I'm swapping to another suspension is to save some money. The stock suspension is pretty clapped out, and arcane to begin with, and parts for it are expensive. I can buy a prefabricated subframe...

I was thinking of welding shock mounts to the subframe and using street rod style shocks like this.

If you want to make it even easier to learn, and you're using stock rims... get a set of 205/55-16 tires. They fit the stock rims better than the stock tire size, the sidewall profile is much better so there's less sidewall flex = easier to control.

I'm planning on using an A70 front subframe under my 1950 chevy sedan deluxe chassis when I get around to starting THAT project. It will make it easier to bolt in the 1UZFE/automatic that I plan to run in it. Well. Easier than doing a fatman aftermarket subframe, custom rack conversion, and...

It's at $500 right now and it has an R154... I'd buy it for parts at that price. If it wasn't 2000 miles away.

I don't have the plastic in the back of my interior, so I'm not sure how easy it is to get to, but the gas door mechanism is right behind the power antenna (which I also don't have, but from memory, you can fit your hand around it to get to the gas door). The rear plastic was pretty easy to...

You can pull directly on the thing that releases the door if you go behind the plastic panel inside behind the gas door.

The clutch fingers that the release bearing pushes on move out (away from the flywheel) as the disc wears, the clutch fork is on a pivot, so the slave cylinder end moves the other way (toward the flywheel), which is toward the slave cylinder base. It is the opposite of what you'd expect, but...

I got a heater hose with a 90 degree bend pre-formed on one end from napa, I ran it under the upper pipes and over to my catch can.

When I changed my pump I didn't need to remove the rear half of the housing. I just took the front off and changed it. I didn't buy a whole pump "unit" from toyota.

Judging by where it's cracked it seems likely that it was from the bolts not being evenly torqued or from a piece of the old gasket stuck to the housing (somewhere near the middle of the pump). Aluminum cracks easily if things aren't perfectly flat. I cracked a GM 3.4L upper intake manifold...

I like the mesh.

The energy boots don't work well upside down on a non-greasable joint. They are fine if you can grease the joint every oil change, which pushes the dirt that creeps in back out. Otherwise they let dirt and water creep in and it stays in there. I doubt silicone RTV would hold to glue them in...

I leave them down as much as I can because they are like two giant air brakes. My other cars (fixed headlights) I leave the headlights on all the time for visibility. I wish there was a fixed conversion kit for this car (even better if it didn't require cutting the core support). Someone...

Thinking about it more... the MK4 would be the correct one to use if you didn't have one and needed to buy one. However, I just looked on my car and I have a MK3 slave cylinder on it (and it works fine). So, if you have one it will work.... sort of. Things are never as simple as "will it fit"...

Hmm... I *think* I used one for a MKIII W58 on mine. You do need the MK4 clutch fork though for sure, it's different.