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You should add a fuse to the wire if the wire is a smaller gauge than the wire already going to the radio.

I painted mine with silver paint. After some intense math to calculate the theoretical physics of it all (I have a theoretical degree in physics) I came to the conclusion that silver paint conducts heat better cause it's got metal in it. Plus it looks fancy.

They look straight, but they have to have a slight angle on each shaft to keep the u-joints lubricated properly. On cars that have the shaft too straight the u-joints seize up or get notchy. AWD Ford Escapes have that problem.

I found this while I was researching driveshafts for my car (I spun the bonded rear shaft). It seems like reliable info, they got their info from Inland Empire Driveline. http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/0608rc_driveshaft_tech/viewall.html They tell you how to check the angles...

Check the classifieds section. There are always people parting out cars. Make sure the yokes on the rear tube line up perfectly, otherwise the rear bonded tube might have failed, which is common. If you want/need one fast and nobody is selling a used one now then you can get a brand new single...

$47.23 Paypal will automatically convert currency at the current exchange rate for you.

You need the front driveshaft section, the whole section from the middle bolt together flange to the trans. Maybe you can just swap the yoke, but the length might be wrong and you'd have to get it balanced then anyway. A 6 puck disc with a stock pressure plate won't hold. I tried that and no...

The day/night temp problem is most likely just a thermostat. Assuming it's not overheating at all. It sounds like the thermostat isn't closing all the way.

I also run the 7M cooler on the PS. I mounted it in the fog light opening in the bumper. It's possible for a fluid cooler to cause cavitation if it were a restriction. I don't see the bubbles making it all the way to the pump though. They would collapse before they reached it unless they...

I'd worry about them using poor quality cast aluminum and it cracking from the voids. There are some good brands on there for a decent price (~$100). You should also look for ones that are hub-centric; those that you posted are lug-centric and are wrong for our car.

I'd have bought one six months ago, but I bought an OEM lip and the hardware.

About 2psi, sometimes more. Even with aftermarket intercoolers pressure drop is an issue, although not as bad. I see 1.5psi with my core that's sized for 450hp. I seem to recall reading a reason not to source the boost signal from after the IC... I can't remember where I read that or why not to...

The ebay downpipe I bought was as thin as paper. It was light weight, but it was so thin it was a royal pain in the ass to MIG weld when I modified it for the single turbo swap. It was half the thickness of the 16ga pipe I bought to weld to it. Same goes for the ebay cat-back I bought and...

If their price is significantly cheaper than buying from a reputable turbonetics dealer then they're probably fakes. There are a few companies in china making turbonetics knockoffs, some even have the name on them. If they're just ~$100 less then maybe the guy has old stock he's trying to get...

That's true... if you're investing in anything that's backed by "money". Investing in ACTUAL gold and silver (not bonds or certificates) are not like investing in stocks or bonds. Example... Say you were alive back in 1950 and you put a $5 bill and $5 worth of gold bullion (1/7oz back then)...

I didn't see it in the first few posts, but if you haven't... check the suspension joints very well. Especially the front lower ball joints and the rear lower/outer spherical joints (look like bushings, but aren't bushings). Other than that, look over the whole car really good. My car only...

Door handle looks tan to me... odd color combo.

Sounds like a bad wheel bearing or severely worn out rotors and pads, or a combination of all. The fact that your rotor (rotors?) were rubbing the dust shield makes me think (after "OMGWTFBBQ?!") that your wheel bearing is pretty well dead. Abusing the E-brake will heat up things back there much...

I'd get new wheels for sure. If one breaks there you'll end up messing up a lot of shit, possibly wrecking the car too.

Concentrate on making yourself a success and let the performance build wait. If you let the car sit it will be rusty, and if you try to fix the car without a solid job you'll dig yourself a financial hole that might ruin you for years. Trust me on that one, you don't want to spend the best years...