rear brake pad fell off need help diagnosis

noimitation

New Member
May 18, 2009
28
0
0
Gaithersburg
Ok so hear is the story. last year i replaced all the brake pads on my supra and took it to the mechanic to unfreeze the calipers ( he said he just hit it with the hammer). I started to have too much fun and would brake a lot to the point where it would no longer hold and readjusted the tension on the ebrake from the inside with the 2 washers rich under the brake from the inside ( a temporary fix until the weather got better) so now, my shocks on my supra blew (3/4) and the rotors were rubbing on the shield. I decided i was going to do everything at once and would replace the pads for the e brake and do the coil over installation once i gathered all the $$$. a day after i order the coil overs, i brake at a stop sign right in front of my house and i hear something pop. i park my car and i see that the rear brake pad from which all of the noise was coming from while driving has popped out and is stuck between the rotor and the shield. Anyone have any idea what could have caused this and how i may fix this properly?? thanks in advance.

PS: yes i know i shouldn't have been driving my car in these condition and should have waited a week until i got my coil overs but this is my daily driver.
 

noimitation

New Member
May 18, 2009
28
0
0
Gaithersburg
yes lots. it would lessen as you speed up so i assumed it was that as i increased my velocity the good shocks would carry some of the weight the bad shocks couldn't hold. when i looked at the back a week ago, the rotor would touch the shield so i just assumed that was the entire problem. WHen i would brake, it would brake hard and with a big metal sound ( kind of like the big heavy duty construction trucks sound like when they brake). Is there a connection with the burn brake and my rear brake pads?
 

Supracentral

Active Member
Mar 30, 2005
10,542
10
36
noimitation;1857111 said:
Anyone have any idea what could have caused this

False assumptions about the source of sounds that would indicate to a sane person that there's a serious mechanical problem. Failure to heed the obvious warning signs about severe mechanical problems. Using a parking brake as a substitue for horsepower. Abusing your car.

noimitation;1857111 said:
and how i may fix this properly??

Disassemble the entire assembly on that wheel. Carefully inspect each component for signs of damage. Replace the parts you fucked up with your abuse.
 

destrux

Active Member
May 19, 2010
1,183
10
38
PA
Sounds like a bad wheel bearing or severely worn out rotors and pads, or a combination of all. The fact that your rotor (rotors?) were rubbing the dust shield makes me think (after "OMGWTFBBQ?!") that your wheel bearing is pretty well dead. Abusing the E-brake will heat up things back there much hotter than they were designed to and I've seen excessive heat cook the wheel bearings to the point they failed. Improper e-brake adjustment can do it too. So can a stuck caliper... which if your "mechanic" fixed it by hitting it with a hammer... I'm willing to be it went back to being stuck after a few weeks because there is no way to fix a stuck caliper with a hammer. You can break it free, but it will go back to being stuck from the rust that made it stuck in the first place. If a caliper is stuck you need to replace it.

I'd also replace your pads and rotors, and check those wheel bearings. The e-brake doesn't use pads, it uses a set of shoes, and those probably need replacement too. You aren't supposed to adjust the e-brake inside the car, the adjusters are in with the shoes behind the rotors.

Get a service manual. Download one online, it's free. Don't try to assemble the brakes by just figuring it out.
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
3,811
1
38
Arizona
www.supramania.com
Yikes, this is a scary read...

You need to take some time and money to do things correctly, especially with safety systems like your brakes.

NEVER go back to your "mechanic" if he simply suggested hammering your caliper free instead of replacement or at the very least a thorough rebuild.

You know that warning on parts that sometimes says "only to be installed by trained technician/professional"? This is exactly why.

Sounds like you'll be doing a lot of work on that corner. Get the tsrm. Read it, follow it, ask questions along the way and don't talk to the hillbilly hammer man again. :)

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