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It's not really that expensive for small machines. Something like a Printrbot will get you going, and the parts you can make on those machines are pretty detailed. http://printrbot.com/ If you buy complete kits, it can be expensive, but if you do a lot of the legwork yourself on sourcing parts...

if you need connectors to adapt a 2jz alt, Yota Connectors has them: http://www.yotaconnectors.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=alt&Submit=Search

Ugh the 7M CPS is horrible for this. Unfortunetaly, the wires themselves get crispy and breakable, so if you aren't careful you will have to trim and/or extend your harness when you try to install new connectors. On a side note, we were installing new suspension on a buddies car, and the TEMS...

Blinker fluid? If it's sort of milkshake consistency, it would be antifreeze and oil = BHG, but if it doesn't smell? Not sure.

if you don't want to replace the whole thing, just buy/borrow a brake line flaring tool and a cutter. Cut the line short to fit a new section you buy from the parts store. Make sure to get the same flare type fittings as stock, and it should be fairly straight forward.

anyone know the bolt and or hole size in the hatch for an 88 wing? how about the hole size for the rear wiper? Recently got access to a lathe so I wanted to see if I could make some plugs for the holes.

if you cut down a bolt, run a die over the threads. You don't want a sharp or bent thread to tear up your fuel rail. if you dont have a die of the right size, you can put a nut on the bolt, cut the bolt and file the edges, then back the nut off.

option 1 would be the lightest, option 2 might block some airflow to your radiator, option 3 flushmount has been done before so you know it can work. would you need to keep the stock lights to be street legal?

ah ok so with a drysump you don't need/use a PCV system?

this help? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=BE&P=49

what is the valve type thing that you have attached to the block on the drivers side? looks like a crankcase vent? did you build the drysump pan yourself?

your paint is so red it looks like that is photoshopped one question, but it looks like you installed the line lock before the stock front/rear bias valve? won't that not work properly? assuming it's a non-ABS car? looks like you should have installed it after, right before your T fitting.

This isn't meant as a dickish comment, but have you looked at install videos? A quick search led me to this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLe9WDmhAvk Obviously not a Supra, but maybe browse through Youtube and watch some videos, it might give you some tips on how to install yours.

will it just need a re-ring and a quick hone, or more than that?

doable, but expensive: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/aluminum-pipes/carbon-fiber-45-p-9668.html

looks great, I like the exhaust coating color.

Sounds like a good product for people that don't want to run a vented bypass valve. Thanks for posting the review. I was looking at their wastegate actuators for a replacement to the stock actuator (it would need a custom bracket of course). It seems like a quality product.

For those goals, just get the bolt on. Simpler install.

You just need a driver for each stepper, and then a way to control the drivers, using something like an Arduino. Programming an Arduino is pretty simple, there are lots of resources to learn it. Something like 4 of these: https://brainy-bits.com/shop/modules/easydriver-stepper-motor-driver/...

They are just stepper motors, correct? You can build a controller pretty easily, just takes some electronics knowledge. It would be a neat idea to have more than the stock settings. Like having different front/rear settings for drag racing, etc