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Couple of whys. 1. neither lead nor tin conduct electricity as good as aluminum or cooper. Which means higher resistance at the solder point which means HUGE potential for failure under high current. 2. Soldering will always allows the solder from seeping past the point where you need it, no...

210.. basically leaving a scant 20 degrees to boiling the coolant over (230 due to pressure and coolant).. F that. Razor thin margin of fuck up room.

yay, if you pay $400 for it.. don't forget the dual piping, the oil feeds, the oil drains.... 1.5k to say you have two inefficent turbos.

And here is fig with the big stick to bat the leg humpers down...

Porky's rocks... one of the guys I play ping pong with is the owner of that place :) mmmm greasy onion rings!

So those black boxes do infact come in handy..... should not have taken that long to say... hey, the black box does not indicate anyone of you numnuts hitting the gas pedal. That coincides with the zero PSI recorded on all four corners from the hydraulic system of the brakes. In...

the AEM V1 expec the stock components. If the coils are within the range specified (the Chevy twin tower coils WORK with the stock ignitor which are used by Electromoive, and SDS) then you can exchange them for the OEM 7m coils. Of course for reliability, stick with OEM.

Jon sent you a pm... I am thining this is more japanese then chinese.... I had a couple of folks from Shenzen, China look at it, in short. They say it is gibberish. So it is Han but probably from Japanese meanings. I posted the charachters below...

320 lb/ft... as with all electric motors.. torque is greatest when the motor is at zero RPM and current is applied. So that means it will take off like a bat out of hell from the big donut.

Moving to general as ths is not turbo related...

Joel correct on the bolt. It is common knowledge at least with anyone that spoke with me ;) You are talking to the guy that got these designed back in 2006. One of the engineering drawings was the turn down of the stock OEM bolt by 2mm. Since then I think ATI has a bolt + washer combo they...

Closing this as there is no point in discussing such matters unless someone is ponying up the million some odd dollars... until then, thread closed.

Soldering on high current wires = a big no! crimp and only crimp. Require GOOD tools (not the cheap crap sold at Napa, Radioschack etc) and good PIDG crimp connectors. here, if you are wanting to clean up the electrical system... MoteC PDM30 or PDM15 x 2. Done.

what you are thinking is Low pressure under laminar flow (high velocity, the hood specifically). any sharp edges on the fore edge of the car will be high pressure zones as the air slows down. That means the window (hence why most bugs splat against the windshield) and the gap between the hood...

umm sorry dude. that won't cool anything. As a matter of fact, that area is a high pressure zone. It will create a heck of a lot more turbulance in the engine bay than is needed. Think about it this way, EVERY SINGLE CAR has the AC vent in that general area. If you can smell all the...

6 pin 4 wires.... the picture.. i see a black/red or orange wire. Those are 12v DC power wires. The blue white wires. usually signal from the ECU. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=47 I see the black red and black orange and blue whte there.....

Diehard PLATINUM.... they are the same as the Odessy batteries ;)

well lets clear something up right now. Optima is NOT and has NEVER been a dry cell! it is a gel cell. with that said, what is your budget? Because I can say get a Braille CF LIPO battery and call it a day. That is a $1k battery.

ummm is that 11mm? If so when did 14mm become the new 11mm?

Wow, suprised that PZL was so liberal with their information.....don't know if to be more suspicous or what... anyway... If it does "better" than Platinum. I am game. Picked up at walmart for 28 bux for the 5 qt jug. I actually just started using this in my Cadillac CTS 07..... just did...