Electric fan question...

boostcraver

boostcraver

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Mar 13, 2010
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Like the title says, my question is about electric fans. I am looking into purchasing a CX Racing radiator, electric fans, and fan shroud pkg. off Ebay. My question is: If I get the fans, can I just wire them directly to the plugs for the stock condensor fans? At what temp do the condensor fans kick on? The fans included in the set are 12vdc, 40 amp fans flowing > 1200 cfm @ 2100 rpm. I just want to know if anyone else has done this to make the e-fans a bolt in install, and if so, how well did it work? Will I need to get an e-fan controller? Thanks in advance to anyone who can point me in the right direction. Also, sorry if this question has been asked before, I just couldn't find the specific info I was looking for in any of the search results.
 
supraguy@aol

supraguy@aol

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Dec 30, 2005
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Get a controller. The condenser fans(IIRC) don't come on unless you exceed 210 degrees, or if you have ac on.
Or- if you want more reliable cooling, get a stock fan and clutch.
 
boostcraver

boostcraver

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gennro;1594127 said:
The radiator is junk and doesn't fit
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I have a friend who bought this radiator and that's what he said as well. I just wanted to see if anyone else said the same thing 'cuz his car has been tagged in the front before.
 
boostcraver

boostcraver

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supraguy@aol;1594104 said:
Get a controller. The condenser fans(IIRC) don't come on unless you exceed 210 degrees, or if you have ac on.
Or- if you want more reliable cooling, get a stock fan and clutch.
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I appreciate the response, supraguy. That answers my main question. I definitely want to get a reliable electric set-up and ditch the stock clutch fan 'cuz I'm already hearing the condensor fans kick on and my ac dosen't work so it's not turned on. Also, I'm just breaking in a fresh rebuild with forged internals so I'm not driving it hard at all (no boosting) and no more than 3k rpm. Prolly gonna need to look into a real temp guage asap. Stocker is not reading anything above half way at any time.

---------- Post added at 06:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:20 PM ----------
IJ.;1594142 said:
Given the 7M's potential for total and utter disaster after a cooling system failure it's a good idea NOT to cut corners...
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Definitely agree with you there. This is my second Sup' and I found out very early with the first about the HG and other cooling system shortfalls. Can you recommend a good fan controller? I understand HKS has discontinued theirs...
 
jetjock

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
Why do so many think CFM is all important? It's not. In fact too much is a bad thing. And assuming his fan clutch is working this guy's problem doesn't involve airflow through the radiator anyway. He already proved that in a prior post...
 
boostcraver

boostcraver

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jetjock;1594173 said:
Why do so many think CFM is all important? It's not. In fact too much is a bad thing. And assuming his fan clutch is working this guy's problem doesn't involve airflow through the radiator anyway. He already proved that in a prior post...
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The clutch fan is working properly. Not sure what else it could be as the block and head were thoroughly cleaned when the engine was built. I have good oil pressure and new hoses throughout, as well as a new 190 degree thermostat. Thought about changing to a 180 degree... any thoughts? I am missing the plastic underbody pan that runs from the front bumper back the crossmember. Could that be contributing?

---------- Post added at 08:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:14 PM ----------
IJ.;1594154 said:
No probs here ya go!
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Thanks IJ! Looks good. I will let you know how it works for me if that's what I end up doing.
 
boostcraver

boostcraver

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Nosechunks;1594195 said:
The undercover can be contributing, but wont cause overheating issues.
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Not really sure if I am "overheating" but according to supraguy's response I am getting to at least 210 degrees for the IIRC to activate the fans. IDK what is the "normal" range for the engine to operate in?
 
boostcraver

boostcraver

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Louisville, KY
jetjock;1594218 said:
The radiator is likely at fault. I say likely because since you didn't say how the fan clutch was determined to be working properly we have nothing but your word to go on.
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I haven't tried to hold the fan when the engine is at idle or anything like that, however, when I rev the engine, I hear the fan get much louder. Sounds like a damn Mac truck. I conclude that it is working properly as it seems logical that the sound would remain virtually unchanged if it were just free wheeling on the shaft. I may be mistaken though. It wouldn't be the first time. I can also see it get visibly faster if I rev it from under the hood.
 
8

89supra7mgte

New Member
Sep 20, 2009
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ok so i just read the entire post and now i am a little lost as to what the thread is actually about? is there an issue going on or just want to change rad and e-fans? Personally i am using a flexalite e fan with hayden controller, and aftermarket mech temp gauge. car reaches 210 steady, fan comes on and keeps car cool. i took out all the ac except fans and ran off controller as well not once has car overheated since new mhg.
 
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