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Stuff like this: http://www.rhdjapan.com/moonface-ball-joint-heal-shield-protector-pillow-guard-60216 I know I've seen other ones for far cheaper though...

I had to remove the driver's seat to pull the assembly out.

Yep, but on a miata and not a supra (as mine still have the shields). They do make wraps to protect the joints fromt he heat (or just use the shields). Remaking the shields out of aluminum with mounts for ducts to cool the brakes would be a better option.

It will destroy the boots in short order. Do what you want, but you've been warned.

It's fine... you're pushing the wrong way and it's obviously your hydraulic system.

Actually, RP does tend to cause leaks because of it's base stock (vs say redline). It's additive pack isn't that good either for the price. Regardless, kinda the wrong section, so moved. ;)

...and also bakes the shit out of your ball joints and tie rod ends causing premature failure.

I agree. Only way I could see it being that cheap is if it didn't come with hardware or a third brake light. The whaletail might be half that price, but it's a far simpler design.

Well, removing the steering stabilizer might be the issue. The later cars without it ran different pulleys on the power steering pump. The point is, more pressure in the system to take the place of the dampener. IJ had more info on this...

Because it's not "locked in" as you say. Paying a shop is more expensive than renting a tool (which is usually free from local autoparts stores).

It does matter, it's annoying to read. Anyway, yes: http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-aemv2ecupnp7mgte89-upsupra.php

I assume you mean the molding, and it may be possible, but it's going to require cutting... Nope, won't work. I remember seeing a picture years ago of someone trying it out and it doesn't fit right.

Darwin Awards waiting to happen...

Yes, and a spring flying sideway out of the wheel well isn't any less dangerous? :3d_frown:

Hard to explain, but the low RPM's with the engine trying to not let itself stall will cause the drivetrain to rock. There's quite a lot of play (intentional and wear) in the drivetrain. Motor mounts, transmission mount, suspension, sprung clutch, etc... The answer is simple, get more revs ;)

Sounds more like surging, not wheel hop.

Since the spring won't be fully decompressed by the time the top fo the strut comes out, what you're suggesting is extremely dangerous. "Barely" popped apart means the spring doesn't travel far, but it has a lot of force. It may not look like much, but it's enough force to do serious...

On an NA, you'll lose the ACIS going to a FFIM... While peak power will be the same (very doubtful you'd make more power), your powerband won't be as broad.

So long as you have a local autoparts store, renting is fine. I wouldn't trust most of the cheaper tools out there, but the ones you have pictured work well.

LOL, car hasn't moved in years :1zhelp: Plus, I'm better at electronics than bodywork :rofl: