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We have had more then a few cars that had the fuel system rusted so bad that we felt compelled to change the filter. I guess in recent years the ethanol content in our gasoline has gone up, which seems to cause the fuel system to rust and gum up in the lines and filters on vehicles that sit for...

:ttiwwp: This thread is BS, he should have started the thread out with a picture of himself standing next to the car, and who cares if the vin and/or license plate is all over the internet?!?

I have plenty of new male connectors for the CPS itself if you need one.

Shoulda brought it to Driftmotion instead. :(

Sorry, after looking into it further I can't match that price with the bearings also included.

Sorry, I have to disagree. But as always, my opinions are based on personal experience with many engines, not just one, but what the hell do I know about anything..... I mean, if I hadn't personally fixed like 50 engines that had exhaust stud leaks, and none of them had a problem again after...

The 7/16" helicoil kit is an inexpensive way to fix the exhaust stud issues for most people. If the head is really in bad shape, it may need timeserts, or to be replaced with another head. IMHO, tapping it with 3/8" would be a complete waste of time and money. If a 10mm stud pulls out, 7/16" is...

The wastegates work great, I have been running one on my personal car for 2 years with no issues, and we've sold hundreds of them. As I stated before, we have had only 1 or 2 defective units, and that was just a manufacturing defect, we have never had one just fail after it had some miles on...

We have sold at least 200 of those wastegates with only 1 or 2 issues, your results weren't typical, and I have no problem exchanging anything that has a problem on our kit. One person that has an issue can make it sound like everyone has the same problem and that is NOT the case here.

19psi

We're not talking about a CT26 turbo 60-1, it's a T4 turbo with a P-trim exhaust wheel. The car had BC cams, Stinger, normal 3" exhaust and intercooler upgrades, and 680cc injectors iirc.

Jose put 285k miles on his 1jz on the original turbos, and when it finally lost a little compression on the #6 cylinder, it got torn down and we saw that all it needed was a new set of rings! The bearings looked like 7M bearings do with 10k miles on them. The torture that engine was put through...

My brother's G35 is about as fast as my 1jz..... off boost. LOL I keep smoking those GTO's, I think I've beat 5 of them now. Actually they hit me up each time, it's like they see a Supra and think it's going to be an easy win.

They usually don't need to be completely replaced, it's the green connector on the top of it that gets fatigued from years of vibration of the wires and heat from the exhaust manifold. Usually you can just solder in a new 4 pin connector and that usually takes care of the problem. Next time...

A bad CPS connector is usually causes the random not starting issue you are describing. A bad TPS or misadjusted TPS is very common, if it's the original TPS it probably needs to be replaced.

:gaybar:

The problem was that even though I had it running great, the VVTi was disabled because the 6860 isn't capable of controlling VVTi. It's a complicated feedack loop circuit and software that a normal standalone would not have the correct inputs and outputs to be able to operate.

#11 sounds like your best choice!

The harness I made for Perilongo was for a VVTi engine! It was completely different then a normal 1jz! I didn't put two and two together on that, I didn't recognize his screen name. The firing order is completely different, the trigger wheel is different, the ignitor is wired different, etc...

You can load 100 different maps, it's not going to fix wiring problems. Have you done any basic steps like manually triggering the ignitor inputs and see which coils fire? Man, threads like this make it look like wiring a 6860 standalone is some insurmountable task, and it's just not.