EMS Stinger 8860/6860 1JZ Base settings and ECU help needed. :(

10secdream

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viperkillertt;1394769 said:
Cant change it. Mine are high resistance, and it is set to that. You had 550s in yours, right? I have 380s still. THe setting is 10-16ohm. I am just trying to get it to run so i know it works before i disassemble the engine and rebuild the turbo system with the GT35R i have. It is very frustrating because it should have been able to simply run when reinstalled on my engine. I never meant to tune it with this configuration. I just need to know the ECU works properly before i take my engine apart. I have run 6 or 7 maps with all sorts of fuel settings including the two Aaron made at driftmotion. Nothing is working :( Mike and I have tried ever posible ECU setting and still nothing. Car runs perfectly on stock ECU.
And yes, i did measure them. I believe they were 14.5 or 15.5ohm. Something like that. It was above 10, so i knew it was high resistance.

Actually that is not entirely correct. The injectors may be that resistance but the factory wiring for the injectors has them wired in pairs. With that said the actual resistance is half and the closest value on the stinger is 4.5ohms. I would verify that you have your injectors wired correctly. I have a feeling you have them in batch fire but are trying to run them sequentially?
 

10secdream

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I am pretty sure you just have a wiring issue that needs to be sorted out. Like you said you have tried 7 maps and still failed to get it running. Like I said triple check the wiring and especially watch the fuel one.
 
10secdream;1395130 said:
Actually that is not entirely correct. The injectors may be that resistance but the factory wiring for the injectors has them wired in pairs. With that said the actual resistance is half and the closest value on the stinger is 4.5ohms. I would verify that you have your injectors wired correctly. I have a feeling you have them in batch fire but are trying to run them sequentially?
That is very good input. I will try that tomorrow. I believe they are 14.5ohm or 15.5ohm, so 1/2 would be around 8. I will try 4.5 and see what happens. This wouldn't be a wiring issue, but a settings issue. The wiring was done by driftmotion, so i expect it to be correct. Only Aaron's shop has touched this unit before i got it 3 weeks ago. My cars wiring should work because i have been using it just about every day for the last 2 years without wiring issues. I did try the maps as he had them with 4.5ohms but they didn't work then. I will see what happens though.
Thanks!
-Josh
 
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nosechunks;1400426 said:
Progress?
Sadly, none at all.
We have tried every single setting and 9 1jz/2jz maps with probably about 50 different configurations. I have tried every suggestion without success. The only thing that got it to work was when it was running on the middle 2 cylinders. Other then that, nothing has worked :( It doesn't make any sense because these are the driftmotion maps and the driftmotion harness. I am beyond frustrated. I am probably just going to have to sell it and go back to megasquirt, i know it should at least work. It also has many more options for testing. you can tell it to just fire number one and it will. Great for testing. Also you can figure out the perfect dwell setting by doing this.
 

figgie

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viperkillertt;1395143 said:
That is very good input. I will try that tomorrow. I believe they are 14.5ohm or 15.5ohm, so 1/2 would be around 8. I will try 4.5 and see what happens. This wouldn't be a wiring issue, but a settings issue. The wiring was done by driftmotion, so i expect it to be correct. Only Aaron's shop has touched this unit before i got it 3 weeks ago. My cars wiring should work because i have been using it just about every day for the last 2 years without wiring issues. I did try the maps as he had them with 4.5ohms but they didn't work then. I will see what happens though.
Thanks!
-Josh


if they are 14.5 ohms

1/(1/14.5 + 1/14.5) = 7.25ohms

if they are 15.5 ohms

1/(1/15.5 + 1/15.5) = 7.75 ohms

did Aaron test you stinger out to make sure the injector channels are not fried? The harness that Aaron built. Did he wire them for full sequential or is it using the stock system in ANY way?
 

10secdream

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Before you give up make sure you test everything. I doubt the EMS is at fault or the settings. If you can't get 2 cylinders to run it may just be a fuel or ignition wiring issue. Pull all the plugs crank the engine and check the firing order. Pull the rail out and see if all the injectors fire.
 

TurboStreetCar

Formerly Nosechunks
Feb 25, 2006
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Check your wiring and contact Aaron, if you bought everything from him and he set up the harness he should know the settings.

You have it set for 6 ignitors, is the ignition on a 1j sequential? Also the name of that map is saved under 2jz.

The 1jz map you posted in the zip file i see problems, the fuel and ignition maps are have every load point set at -100Kpa and the compensations are off the wall. That tune file looks like a disaster.

Try this map im posting. This is assuming the following things, Sequential ignition wired correctly, batch fire injection that to my understanding would be the correct 720 multi-point (im going sequential on my car so never looked into batch fire) and injector ohms as per manual is only an option so as voltage fluctuation occur they can be compensated for meaning its relatively unimportant for starting and basic running of the vehicle.

This map should get the engine to fire, you will most likely have to play with the injector time scale to get the fueling right because this was from a 7m with 550cc injectors but all the settings should be correct assuming correct wiring, and the maps should be close enough to with a little work scaling fuel have the car running.

**A note with this file is all compensations for cold start, air/water temp, acceleration enrichment and ignition timing are all turned off. The ignition timing is locked to static timing so if your cam position sensor is set to 10DBTDC that will be your ignition timing until you tell the ems to run off the ignition map in the trims page.

The fuel will be taken direct from fuel map with no enrichment corection and as i said igintion timing will be whatever the CPS is set for untill you change it in the software.

Since your running 380cc injectors the fuel might be a little much, so dont crank it forever and flood it, if you do flood it calibrate the TPS and hold it WOT while cranking to clear it.

Best of luck and post results.
 

Attachments

  • 1jz tune.zip
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bigaaron

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You can load 100 different maps, it's not going to fix wiring problems.
Have you done any basic steps like manually triggering the ignitor inputs and see which coils fire?

Man, threads like this make it look like wiring a 6860 standalone is some insurmountable task, and it's just not.
 
bigaaron;1403138 said:
You can load 100 different maps, it's not going to fix wiring problems.
Have you done any basic steps like manually triggering the ignitor inputs and see which coils fire?

Man, threads like this make it look like wiring a 6860 standalone is some insurmountable task, and it's just not.
Aaron, it is your wiring. As is the maps. That is why i assumed it was correct when i purchased it. The actual wiring harness works fine because the car runs perfectly. I have run the coils outside of the car with the stock ecu, and everything is perfect. Then with the EMS it fires similarly, but obviously it doesn't run the same because it wont fire. I am just used to megasquirt where you can test every facet individually. If i want to fire number one, i can. I will get mike to chime in, he might have more info.
 

TurboStreetCar

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I posted the file because the files you posted that you were trying to use looked so horrible I'm not syprised it didn't start. If it doesn't start with the map I posted theN it has to be wiring.

The wiring isn't that dfficult. Trace the PNP harness to the stock connectors. Should only take aout 10 minuites or so to sort everything out.

Ignitions are pink, injectors are white, and so on. Take a look at the manual and a look at the EWD and sort it out and rule out the harness.

Did you try loading the file I posted?
 

bigaaron

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viperkillertt;1403151 said:
Aaron, it is your wiring. As is the maps. That is why i assumed it was correct when i purchased it. The actual wiring harness works fine because the car runs perfectly. I have run the coils outside of the car with the stock ecu, and everything is perfect. Then with the EMS it fires similarly, but obviously it doesn't run the same because it wont fire. I am just used to megasquirt where you can test every facet individually. If i want to fire number one, i can. I will get mike to chime in, he might have more info.

The harness I made for Perilongo was for a VVTi engine! It was completely different then a normal 1jz! I didn't put two and two together on that, I didn't recognize his screen name. The firing order is completely different, the trigger wheel is different, the ignitor is wired different, etc... I thought I was going crazy for a second there!

Dude, I had a shitload of time into that VVTI wiring harness, I had to figure out the whole crank trigger setup on my own, no one had any info at all about it. It's a different missing tooth crank trigger with only one cam sync sensor, and it's batch fired injection and ignition iirc. Cylinders 3-4 are ignitor output #1, instead of cylinder 1-6 being #1 like a normal 1jz being batch fired. That harness is not going to work as-is on a non-VVTi 1jz.
 

10secdream

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bigaaron;1403194 said:
The harness I made for Perilongo was for a VVTi engine! It was completely different then a normal 1jz! I didn't put two and two together on that, I didn't recognize his screen name. The firing order is completely different, the trigger wheel is different, the ignitor is wired different, etc... I thought I was going crazy for a second there!

Dude, I had a shitload of time into that VVTI wiring harness, I had to figure out the whole crank trigger setup on my own, no one had any info at all about it. It's a different missing tooth crank trigger with only one cam sync sensor, and it's batch fired injection and ignition iirc. Cylinders 3-4 are ignitor output #1, instead of cylinder 1-6 being #1 like a normal 1jz being batch fired. That harness is not going to work as-is on a non-VVTi 1jz.

Oh wow I am loving this thread:aigo:
 
bigaaron;1403194 said:
The harness I made for Perilongo was for a VVTi engine! It was completely different then a normal 1jz! I didn't put two and two together on that, I didn't recognize his screen name. The firing order is completely different, the trigger wheel is different, the ignitor is wired different, etc... I thought I was going crazy for a second there!

Dude, I had a shitload of time into that VVTI wiring harness, I had to figure out the whole crank trigger setup on my own, no one had any info at all about it. It's a different missing tooth crank trigger with only one cam sync sensor, and it's batch fired injection and ignition iirc. Cylinders 3-4 are ignitor output #1, instead of cylinder 1-6 being #1 like a normal 1jz being batch fired. That harness is not going to work as-is on a non-VVTi 1jz.
Wow, that explains a whole lot. Time to rewire.
 

Clint

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Apr 4, 2005
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10secdream;1403294 said:
I would try selling it to a VVTI owner. Honestly if Aaron put that much effort into it you might as well try and recover some costs and get an actual 1JZ harness built.

I would half to agree. Its better to have it done right the first time.
 

TurboStreetCar

Formerly Nosechunks
Feb 25, 2006
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Sorry to hear, Hope all is well, happened to me a little bit ago, but now i have someone new and happy again.

Its rough i know, but get off your ass and work on the car!