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fwiw, i believe the max for the sawblades is 255, but i'd stick with 225s until i got a new set of wheels.

damn. where do you find the time?

if the trans, transfer case and axles/diffs are in good shape, go for it.

i don't see what the big deal is, i'd gladly pay 20 grand for a ferrari :D

just got done reading robert heinlein's "starship troopers" again, i'm a definite fan of that book.

you could downshift to slow down :D

when i got mine the threads are tightened before the oring touches and seals, i was going to get orings that were a little thicker

another vote for the porterfield r4s, i love mine. well worth it! however, i plan on switching drilled/slotted rotors for cryo'd powerslots from a2 sometime (probably when cracks start to show from the drilled holes). i was a dumbass and got the rotors right after i got the car, didn't know...

i started to tighten them down then caught myself, i think the fipg will do the trick.

i was planning on putting better o-rings on it and sealing the threads with fipg or silicone, maybe loctite.

i'm using 3/8 fuel/emission hose with worm clamps. to make a T that's not 10 lbs of brass (hardware store didn't have barbed brass Ts), i used a copper T with a few lengths of copper tube sweated onto it to give the hose clamp more to grip. haven't installed yet.

sorry, i should clarify more. it doesn't sound like a bearing or brake, and the tire isn't chirping but the right rear corner makes a noise that i can best describe as "oop" or "urp". i'll try to get a camera mic or something back there so you guys can hear it. no alignments, no accidents and...

up, anyone else have this problem? everything is still stock, might it be worn bushings?

and use the search feature on this site.

that'll be interesting

search, if they're adjustable you can make dyno runs and adjust your cams to give you a little more power where you want it.

hm, i didn't even think of replacing the bolt in my build.

driving back to school last night in the rain (not sure but the wetness seemed to amplify the noise) and i started to hear a chirping or "urp" from my right rear. -noise wasn't speed or rpm dependent -still occurred under acceleration/coasting -noise quieted down/disappeared around left...

i think the car was longer than the exposure times.

just means they have sizable pictures in their thread that would take way too long for someone on dial-up internet to load.