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Go to the gym. :icon_razz

:drool:

I have an OEM A-duct, and at the same time I had an Ab-Flug. The OEM piece far surpasses the Ab-Flug duct in quality. I think I sold the replica for $250. I am now very against replicas. LOL. I paid around $500 for the OEM. shaeff is in a high horse.

No shit? You're right near me! I'm in Tivoli, right across the river from Kingston (where I work) and not even 30min north of Poughkeepsie. :)

That sucks! Same thing happened to my girl's best friend on Halloween. They knocked out the back window, and the passenger side. :( Looks like you've got all your ducks in a row, though! (and a fantastic stable of cars to choose from as well!) LOL @ that GIF!

Do you have a manual transmission? If so, you'll need to jump the neutral start switch. Using an auto harness w/ a manual ECU should work just fine. By the way, where in NY are you?

Check out www.supracharged.com - there's a lot of information on this swap over there. :)

That's actually how you'll need it. Don't look for compatibility with the engine, look for compatibility with the chassis. A rule of thumb is to always get an engine harness that matches the year of your chassis. The motor doesn't care what harness you use. There are only two or three sensors...

It's not an M3 Euro is it? If so, it's pushing 286bhp. If it's a US market M3, only 240bhp. The US market e36's are slow, and you should have no problems at all beating them.

Damn!

Hey Victor, I'm fairly certain that your code 11 will mask any other codes until you fix that. It's a power interruption to the ECU. The ECU is grounded on the bottom right of the intake manifold near the firewall. There are two eyelet connectors that should be free of corrosion, and securely...

Picture courtesy of Shawndude:

Sounds like the threads for the exhaust manifold studs are stripped. Time to helicoil, or timesert (timeserts are better). http://www.timesert.com/

I hear ya. That sucks on the copper seal, hopefully they didn't put that in to bandaid a leaking HG. 5v is a good choice. I'm going high CR 7mgte with mine, eventually. I just used the money I've been saving for that to buy a tru-trac rear diff w/ 3k miles on it, though! (wicked deal at $425...

I've had a MKII lower radiator hose on my car for several years. Much better fitting and design. :)

Have fun with that 3vze. :( They're kindof a bitch, have a headgasket recall, the Knock sensors are a complete PITA to get to (in the center of the V), and they're not that much more powerful than the 22re. Great looking truck, though. Mine is rusting away badly. LOL. Seriously, it's bad...

If you're going turbo, use turbo electronics. (ECU, AFM, CPS, Ignitor, etc...) Also, there's no such thing as a reflash for these cars, unless you want to go the dinosaur route and find an old TechTom ECU and then find someone to reprogram it for you. (not worth it with our more sophisticated...

That's because on late style blocks the KS boss is further forward, thus not requiring the starter to be loosened. (and for early blocks, you just have to loosen it, not remove it;)) Not from the factory, there isn't.

You're all on crack. There are only TWO knock sensors on turbo models, and only ONE on N/A's. If for some odd reason there are more than two on a turbo, or more than one on an N/A, it means that some hack who had no idea what they were doing added one in where there's an extra threaded boss on...

Yikes, that's some serious rust. I strongly urge you to pull the hatch plastics, and the rear seat/seat bolsters that clip in place and look for rot through into the interior. With that kind of external rust, I'm willing to bet that there's a large amount of interior rust as well. One of the...