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Stop chasing your tail. Get a Tracerline kit.

No idea on the camera setup, but it's damn cool. If you want to view more discussion about it, there's a thread over on BF.c (www.bimmerforums.com) located here: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1333615

For real. That dude can drive!

That camera setup is sweet. :)

Fuel pressure up VSV.

Another common reason for the dash lights going out when you turn the headlights on is if your hazard light wiring is unplugged from the switch. ;)

Yes, I know. I did in fact read the entire thread. I was simply making a statement explaining that my quality BIC DDP didn't make any noticeable noise, even when cold. ;)

I did the exact same thing (with the same results) on an old moped back in high school :) Of course, it was a bit awkward, as the moped's gas tank was part of the frame. I ended up lifting it on the overhead winch in my garage, went through the same procedure. My dad taught it to me. :) The...

When I was running a BIC DDP, there was no noticeable exhaust leak sound.

If I remember correctly, drjonez used to make larger capacity steel pans. Or you could try to source an uber rare Group A magnesium oil pan. Larger capacity, better baffling, all around awesomesauce.

Take care, bud!

Any crank pulley besides an OEM unit, and ATI is crap. You MUST have a dampened pulley, and those are the only two options available.

When I got my uber cool JDM tYte motor, I had it apart on numerous different occasions, every time I put it back together, I re-used the exhaust manifold gasket, turbo-> manifold gasket, and turbo->DP gasket. None of them ever leaked.

Wouldn't be a bad idea to check the filter screen, either. Maybe try pulling the reservoir and backflushing it to remove any debris that's trapped on the screen.

LOL, that's pretty cool. For more history, if those are indeed my rear panels, they originally came from TONY!'s car (originally Tony Mawad) up in Albany, NY. I didn't sell Pete the seats, though. Mine were in great shape, so that can't be them!

Do want! :)

Quiet, you! ::moebaker:: :runs away brandishing ban-stick:

Translation: The only code I'm getting is Code 52, as the TSRM states it's for the knock sensor circuit. If you drive normal in first gear, then in second, or try to boost in any gear, it will cut out and sounds like a woosh of air, and I'm not building any boost. Even if I romp on it in...

He figured it out already. ;) For future reference, if a fuse isn't obviously blown, I use my DVOM to check each one I pull. Been there, done that, spent days looking for a problem that turned out to be one of the first fuses I checked. That was several years ago, and I'll never make that...