I agree. That's why I first put in a quart of Redline's 75W90NS and top it off with 75W90. If that's too grabby for you, do it the other way around.
It's easy to add slip. To take it away, you have to drain the case and start over.
Asterix
Get a bigger/stronger press? The TSRM merely shows using some special tools and a press. I'd bet a 20-ton hydraulic press would push them out. Finding the right sleeves for pressing is also critical, according to the pictures in the TSRM. Make sure you're pushing on the right parts.
Asterix
Thanks, guys. I'll try glass cleaner (sans ammonia) first, then some Sil-Glide if that doesn't do it. I wish I had thought of that.
Update: I spritzed it with some Method brand surface cleaner and it went it without too much fuss. I'm sure it'll stay fine once the spritz dries. It took less...
This weekend I finally had some time to replace the long section of the speedometer cable on my '88 NA. After 226,000 miles it was time. (Plus, it was a chance to reinstall the ABS light which has been out since I bought the car 17 years ago...)
Most of the operation wasn't too annoying...
Do you have a measurement for NOx? High CO and HC could mean it's running rich, but the NOx number would verify that. Also, the NOx number would indicate if the EGR was working, since EGR reduces NOx. The catalyst primarily reduces NOx emissions that EGR doesn't get, but does get some CO and HC...
There's a pesky little right-angle hose (#16283) back in there, behind the thermostat housing that likes to split. It is hard to see and annoying to replace. I've taken an old one to a regular auto parts store and matched a section of molded hose rather than buy a new one from Toyota.
Asterix
There's an o-ring on the distributor shaft (or the GTE equivalent) that gets hard and stops sealing where it enters the engine. Change that one while you're at it.
Asterix
I used socket-head screws. With a long ball-nose hex driver that looks like a standard screwdriver, I can get to all of them but one with the car together. Like Keros suggested, I just can't get them too tight that way - I'm not strong enough. I figure as tight as my hand can get them is good...
After checking for codes, I would first check the AFM. Starting but not running is the classic symptom. The second thing to check is the TPS. The check engine light would not turn on for either of these problems.
Asterix
You need a press, a strong 2-jaw puller, some strong snap ring pliers, and an assortment of large sockets or such. The sockets are substitutes for the special tools for pressing the races in and out. You can use the old inner races to press in the new ones, but be careful.
Don't forget to get...
Yup. Extension + swivel + extension + socket run under the intake. Don't use a cheap socket and run the risk of rounding off the nut. Then you get to take the whole intake off so you can get to it. I learned that the hard way...
Asterix
Could be the spring rate is higher on that one spring. Of the springs I've measured, 10% difference between two springs in the same box isn't unusual.
Asterix
Generally, in an MT car, there isn't a tranny cooler in the radiator. There are two versions of the radiator, one with and one without, for AT and MT.
If you have an AT radiator in an MT car, you certainly could use the tranny cooler for the power steering, but it's still a better idea to use...
While your dash is out, replace the speedo cable...
Just remember that, in general, squishy brakes mean air in the system or bad master cylinder seals; hard brakes mean the booster isn't boosting.
Asterix
Your booster is probably fine as long as your master cylinder isn't leaking brake fluid into it.
The booster can come out with the dash intact, but you do get to lie on your back under the dash to undo those 4 nuts with a deep socket. There are two modules you have to dismount and move out of...
There is no performance gain to remove the charcoal canister, and if you do your fuel pump will hate you. There's lots of info on this board about why you shouldn't remove it. You can always relocate it to under the fender if you really don't like looking at it.
Asterix
You have two problems:
1. your booster may be leaking enough to affect your idle
2. your brake system needs help, as in air in the system or your master cylinder has gone bad
The gaskets on either side of the booster don't do anything for the brakes. The one between the master cylinder and...
It's a bit off topic, but Wired Mag ran some WD40 past a gas chromatograph machine, and here are the results.
I can't imagine putting anything on a rotor in an attempt to stop squeaking. The complete solution is between the shims, or maybe a little chamfering if that fails.
My new set of...
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