Brake pedal pushes all the way down to FLOOR,no stop

[supraman508]

Ok so when i was driving through town and preparing to stop at a red light the brake pedal went all the way down to the point that i could'nt stop.Luckly i was'nt driving fast and was able to put the transmission into 2nd while using the emergency brake.I checked the calipurs and the brake lines and nothing was leeking.Would this problem relate more with a faulty brake booster or the mastercylinder.I got a mastercylinder from the junkyard yesterday and inspected the inner parts and the seals looked good due to the seals that came out of my mastercylinder had tears in them.I used the seals that were good and put everything back together.Now if i have air in the system,would it make the brake pedal push very easyly all the way to the floor?:aigo:

 

[rayall01]

Yes. You have to bleed the brakes anytime you change hydraulic parts.

 

[Sideways_bob]

Bleed your brakes, starting with the farthest from the master cylinder.

 

[iwannadie]

You also have to bench bleed the MC before installing it, not just fill it with fluid.

 

[supraman508]

You also have to bench bleed the MC before installing it, not just fill it with fluid.

so what are the chances that the brakebooster will go,cause i took my speedohmeter cluster out and it looks like hell to get to the four nuts and try to take the booster out:aigo::aigo::aigo:

 

[Ohsnap06]

Air in the system will cause a spongy pedal and can also cause your pedal to the floor. As they have said above you definitely need to bleed the system and you should've bench bled the master cylinder before installing. A blown master cylinder (internal leak) can you give you all these headaches as well if all of the air is out.

 

[Asterix]

so what are the chances that the brakebooster will go,cause i took my speedohmeter cluster out and it looks like hell to get to the four nuts and try to take the booster out.

Your booster is probably fine as long as your master cylinder isn't leaking brake fluid into it.

The booster can come out with the dash intact, but you do get to lie on your back under the dash to undo those 4 nuts with a deep socket. There are two modules you have to dismount and move out of the way to get to those 4 bolts, but it's not too bad. Now that I've had some practice, I can swap a booster in about an hour.

It's tricky to get the booster adjusted properly, no matter how easy it looks in the TSRM.

Asterix

 

[RiyadYar]

to test the brake booster just disconnect the vac line and try to pump the pedal it should be very hard that means its good. for bleeding i recommend russell speed bleeders basically has a check valve in them . I like to bleed from the rear driver first because thats the longest line IF you have abs. if not it would be rear passanger

 

[supraman508]

to test the brake booster just disconnect the vac line and try to pump the pedal it should be very hard that means its good. for bleeding i recommend russell speed bleeders basically has a check valve in them . I like to bleed from the rear driver first because thats the longest line IF you have abs. if not it would be rear passanger

Thanks guys,you all are awesome.I took the bottom panel out and i was happy to see how easy it is to get to the booster compared to my stupid self taking the upper dash out and saying to myself that this is going to be imposible.Lern something new everyday.

 

[Asterix]

While your dash is out, replace the speedo cable...

Just remember that, in general, squishy brakes mean air in the system or bad master cylinder seals; hard brakes mean the booster isn't boosting.

Asterix

 

[djblastsupratuner]

If your brake fluid is not clear change it. If it is pink then you have to flush that with brake fluid or alcohol. make sure you use the right DOT brake fluid and manually bleed it starting with the farthest wheel and if it has ABS then you must bleed it a different way. Check rubber hoses that go to your brakes for any cracks or holes. hope this helps

 

[supraman508]

If your brake fluid is not clear change it. If it is pink then you have to flush that with brake fluid or alcohol. make sure you use the right DOT brake fluid and manually bleed it starting with the farthest wheel and if it has ABS then you must bleed it a different way. Check rubber hoses that go to your brakes for any cracks or holes. hope this helps

ok,my brake lines are fine and noticed that the right rear brake calipur did not have a bolt that keeps the lid down for when after you change the pads you swing the lid down and bolt over the pads.

 

[supraman508]

Ok after bleeding my system i noticed that the brake fluid is like the color of transmission fluid and thats not kool due to somebody said that if it's not clear then flush the system.I'm gona do that next week and also i need to get another driver side rear rotor due to when i picked up a calipur at the junkyard and thinking that this one would work,it did'nt.The piston in the calipur i got from the junkyard would not recied back into the calipur after letting off of the brake pedal and would CONSTINTLY grind into the rotor.I kept hearing grinding noises when driving and when i looked through the rim i could see grind groves in my rotor,mf:icon_evil.Now my question is,i seen a rotor at the junkyard and want to buy it.it looks rusty but want to know if i just slap it on my sup,will it be ok,and will the rust go away?I was thinking i might or should take it to a machine shop and have them turn the rotor,what do u guys think?::dunce::

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

You should check it and see if it has enough left to turn, most shops will turn it including a lot of parts places.

 

[Jeff Lange]

Thread Moved.

Jeff

 

[gaboonviper85]

Ok guys seriously!!! This thread is turning into a stupid guessing game! If you have no clue then don't post...don't just pull something from your ass and say "check that" as that's just going to lead the guy on a wild goose chase!

First of all, brake booster has ZERO relation to the brake pedal hitting the floor...if you don't feel resistance in the pedal then that's 100% hydrolic!

Also....the dash does not need to be removed to remove the brake booster so don't go tearing shit appart unless you are taking it out for other reasons...

Too the op:
like rayall said, flush your fluids....also look for leaking fluid between the master brake cylinder and the booster....if no leaks then try bleeding the system....

Brake fluid is yellow/goldish in color not clear usually so don't stress it...just make sure it's not BLACK!

Caliper pistons do not RETRACT when you release the brake pedal bro! That's why you need to push the piston in with a "C" clamp when changing brake pads! You're stressing about things that's infact normal operation and yet nobody has pointed this out to you....this personally pisses me off when forum members do this as your chasing your own tail...

If you need more help just pm me as it's obvious 80% of the people who posted in this thread are about as useful as a shit flavored Popsicle!