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Yup. Porterfield's R4 also squeal like an old bus and make clouds of black dust, but boy do they stop! They get much quieter over a few months, but are rarely silent. I get some good looks when they're squealing; people probably are expecting to see a bus and instead see a small-ish car. Asterix

Thanks, Zumtizzle. While I don't mind the clunk, I have some credit at Rock Auto I need to use up, so these are perfect. Soon I'll be clunkless with the best of y'all. Asterix

Interesting info, Spence. My orginial LSD from August 1987 stopped grabbing at one point, and when I drained the oil it was full of gold-colored flecks. I assumed it was friction material of some sort that came off the clutch plates. New oil with not too much friction additive didn't help the...

Yea, someone hit a tall curb from the front really hard. Good luck with cutting that bolt... Asterix

Thanks, that's what I thought. Here's a better link to Jawsgear to the proper bearing/seal kit. I don't see any clutch sets from them for our car. I'll probably start with this Jawsgear kit and get the rest from Toyota (plus a crush sleeve replacement as suggested by Poodles). Asterix

When I bought my Supra, one of the rear upper arms was stretched. As in, one side had a short necked-down section and was longer than it should've been. My best guess, based on that and other repairs, is that the car had been hit on the driver's door and shoved sideways into a curb. I bought a...

Dumbo, what's this rebuild kit from Toyota? The EPC doesn't mention one. Do you have a part number? Asterix

The MkIII has an 8" ring: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70721&highlight=differential+codes Thanks everyone for some good info. I'm about to start collecting the parts for the rebuild of my 4.3 LSD. Somebody has to have the parts we need... That link to Jawsgear doesn't...

Eh, it's not worth the effort. The rubber thing Koni supplied me has lasted a very long time. Plus, polyu in that place would have to be pretty hard to take the constant force and will let much more high-frequency vibration into the chassis. And, it's not like the location of the shock is...

Another thing to check is the tranny output bearing. Get under there, grab the front u-joint and try to move it around. Your problem sounds a bit like what I had before I fixed that. Shaftmasters makes a nice aluminum one piece drive shaft for our cars that's nicely balanced. It's even a...

I have had excellent success putting a new Toyota seatbelt in on the driver's side. The original one was starting to fray. (Maybe I should buy another pair while I still can...) Asterix

When I first got my Supra, I used Mobil 1 gear oil with the slip additive already in it. Since the Supra was my first car with an LSD, it took me a while to discover that the Mobil 1 oil had so much slip additive in it the LSD action was almost nil. When I started looking into a better...

My Secret LSD Sauce is 1 quart of 70W90NS topped off with 75W90. That way I get decent clutch action, but it's still smooth and quiet. Asterix

Shorting a big lead acid battery briefly won't hurt the battery. They're pretty tough. Shorting it long enough to discharge it completely may hurt it. I wouldn't worry about the battery. Something else let go, probably because it was supposed to, thus saving your wiring. Fuses protect the...

More than one person on my350z.com has had bushings fail after lowering their car because they didn't re-center the bushing. The one that fails is a front lower bushing and is load-bearing, so it gets much more abuse than the upper ones. (I'd post a link, but the board is down right now...)...

The stock #2 arm is way stronger and stiffer than this replacement one... Also, there must be a reason Toyota didn't use a round rod for that arm. Asterix

No pre-89 love. :( It should weigh 3.8lbs by my reckoning... Asterix

Yes, I did this a long time ago on my passenger side. It was a pain, but possible. I recall the glass is in a holder with 3 balls on the back. Those balls snap into the motor assembly, which was the hard part. The EPC backs up my memory. 87908 or 87909 is the part you want. It sounds a lot...

IIRC, there's a ball inside there that has to sit in just the right place or the seatbelt won't come out. And, there's a centrifugal latch that keeps it from coming out too fast. Either of those may be latched and won't let go. There's also a release lever operated by the car door that makes...

Spring clamps are superior since they adjust for temperature automatically, they're faster, they don't cut the hose, and they can't be overtightened. If you overtighten a worm-drive clamp on a plastic pipe, you'll break the pipe. Not good. I'm sticking with spring clamps wherever possible...