LSD Rebuild archive lots of pics

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staticpage

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For the past two weeks I have had a (new to me) lsd siting in the garage. I have had no time to work with it and its been killing me. Today I had to release some stress from a busy week (and the bengals lost), I normally work on the car to do so.

I also figured that because the tsrm is illustrated I would take lots of pics to help any one rebuilding the limited slip differential. This is my first lsd rebuild so i have questions as well.


This is how mine arrived poor packing and ups broke the case. i had other cases that will replace it.
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It had some bad rusted axle studs so I decided to replace them. the best way for removal is to heat them up so you dont have to hammer on them to much. hammering on them can damage the bearings.
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This is probably to hot i was just messing around.
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To remove the side gear shafts, use a slide hammer.
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This is a slide hammer, you can rent one for free at auto zone or advance auto its around $140 down.
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I also used the slide hammer to remove the oil seals for the shafts. The slide hammer comes with many attachments you'll figure it out.
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Remove the caps, follow the tsrm and place match marks where it saids to.
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Remove the side bearing plates with a screw driver. The tsrm shows a sst but its absurd. It takes minimal presser to remove the plates.
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After you do so the differential will fall out.
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This is as far as I got taking pics (see below) after that you can follow the tsrm. You do not have to remove the ring gear or bearings on the differential case just undo the bolts and it comes apart.

when I got my lsd apart, I fond what I believe to be major assembly flaws

Check it out see whats wrong here? If I'm right the clutch plates are not configured in the right pattern.
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Both sides where like this and the plates on one side are fused together.
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On the up side because some of the plates never engaged any thrust washers there brand new. So I only have to order half as many.:biglaugh: more pic to come.
 

staticpage

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gaboonviper85;1431288 said:
WTF....they didn't stack the clutch pack correctly!?!? That's nuts

That's what I said. I have been studying the tsrm for two weeks and I knew something was up. It's one of the worst maybe only assembly problems I've ever seen in a Toyota (besides the 7m HG). I dont think it's ever been worked on, it just does not have any signs of being repaired.
 

suprahero

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I've taken a coupld LSD's apart and their seems to be no ryhme or reason to the way they pack the clutches. One of them had them clutch,washer, clutch, washer, etc.
Another one I did looked like yours. It had three clutches together and three washers together.

I also found out after rebuilding mine with the jawsgear clutches that you don't want to use Redline LSD fluids. It's way too slick. After rebuilding mine, I installed the Redline and a few days later I did a burnout and only left one tire mark. I emptied the fluid and refilled it with some Advance auto lsd fluid and a few days later tried it again. Both wheels were turning. I then swapped the fluid in my wife's because hers had started doing one wheel burnouts with the Redline. About a week later (we don't drive it much) I tried to do another burnout and both wheels were turning again. I think the Redline is toooo slick. Just my two cents worth so take it for what it's worth.
I know you can add something to the Redline, but I chose to just get another brand.
 

staticpage

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Poodles;1431326 said:
Hmmmm, wasn't there changes over the years because of chattering issues?

I never thought of that, like toyota wanted the chatter to just go away. So instead of redesigning it they packed it in a manner that would only allow half the clutches to work.
 

Asterix

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suprahero;1431325 said:
I think the Redline is toooo slick. Just my two cents worth so take it for what it's worth.
I know you can add something to the Redline, but I chose to just get another brand.

I agree. That's why I first put in a quart of Redline's 75W90NS and top it off with 75W90. If that's too grabby for you, do it the other way around.

It's easy to add slip. To take it away, you have to drain the case and start over.

Asterix
 

sethron71

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The change in working faces allows for adjustment in static breakaway as well. It is pretty amazing the adjustability of something that seems so simple! We adjust the prototype diff with different thickness washers mated with different numbers of working faces. We can go as high as 12 working faces and as low as 3 or 4 faces can't remember. All of it makes a difference in drivability on the track. Because a breakaway of 45ft/lbs with 3 working faces and a thick shim has very different characteristics on the track them 45ft/lbs with all 12 working faces even though you have that same static breakaway. So maybe some one stacked them different for a reason?

Seth
 

staticpage

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sethron71 what you said there^ makes total sense and my bench testing confirms it.

I played around with it some more and with the faces stacked the first way the brake away was really low under 15ft/lbs. That's not even an lsd in my opinion.
I'm aiming for 75ft/lbs, I tested it with the faces stacked according to tsrm and got 35ft/lbs. brake away. Then I tried with a custom spring I got off some one on here "gofastgeorge". and it bumped to up to 40ft/lbs. and mind you the "custom spring" fits inside the old one. So that gives me even more tuning options.
when I get the time this week I will be shimming the spring and doing breakaway tests.

Is there a reason why one should shim the clutches and not the spring? From what I can tell, it's doing basically the same thing with out all the measuring and charts.

dubbed "tsrm stacked"
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gofastgeorge's spring
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sethron71

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75ft/lbs is pretty stiff break away about the highest we go is 65ft/lbs on a very tight track. We use 35-45ft/lbs at Daytona. Also your suspension setup makes a difference.

But good write up and good luck!

Seth
 

staticpage

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I would say its 6/10 if rebuilding an engine is an 10. There are specs that should be checked but you can ignore the dial gauge test steps. I checked all mine according to tsrm but I think its really over board. You will have to have a very clean working environment to keep dirt out of the bearings and diff. I highly recommended cleaning the out side case with a good degreaser before you open it to remove any rust flakes and grime so it does not get on the bearings. I fought keeping the bearings clean because I kept touching the dirty case and touching the bearings. Also I think its worth mentioning that, gear oil's smell is very potent it will smell up where ever your working on it. It will penetrate your clothing even if it does not come in contact it will leave a smell on clothing.
 

gofastgeorge

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OneJArpus;1432275 said:
ugh, i hate the smell of gear fluid, i think its the only thing to date that can make me want to throw up lol. Good write up.

I save my old gear oil, and use it to coat parts with that I send to friends in Germany, Greece, and England.
It stinks so bad that customs officials don't question the value I declare.
I once sent a new Garrett turbo to Germany, and my buddy there was told to open the package in front of the customs guy.
When he did, the customs guy all most lost his lunch, and told my buddy to get it the hell out of there, never questioning the $25 value I had put on it.

When I shimmed the springs in my LSD, I first compressed the stock spring in the vice, measured the height,
then measured the space that it sits in, and came up with what ever thickness of spacer I used.
Sorry that I never recorded the thickness, but it was about 4mm or so.
 
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