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If you still have stock piping at all, it's usually the pipe off the turbo or the coupler at the throttle body.

Stock won't even work with the whitelines, that's why they come with new ones. The whiteline endlinks are very beefy and I bet much stronger than "performance" endlinks out there. This pic explains why stock won't work...

Stock twins go well over 100K miles... It's your build, but it's a huge waste of money for your goal (and the sequential system means you don't have lag...)

Not sure why you'd go single for that power goal when it's attainable on the stock twins... Hell, 350HP is simply a bit more boost...

The factory spot (yes, all of them came with coolers). Res. => Pump => Rack => Cooler => Res.

Yep, manuals have one clutch that's easy to replace...automatics have internal clutches that are difficult to replace. Both are wear items...

Adhesive isn't separate, you'd have to buy the entire drip rail. So yes, use some kind of sealant.

Driver's side front MUST be tightened before passenger side front. The passenger side has a slider in it to allow for movement, the driver's side doesn't so it works as the alignment point. Do it in reverse on uneven ground and you're likely to strip the driver's side.

High beam switch is separate from the headlight switch, so he's probably fine there.

Yes it will. The turbo model transmission is beefed up a bit as well. You're still looking at an old transmission though...

Hmm that looks FUBAR from the gap between the parts. I don't see a screw either, I'd have to dig around for the old headlight switch I have kicking around here that I messed with...

I still don't get how you know it's lean without a wideband...

Hmmm got a pic? Should be a screw from what I recall...

I'm sure you know where to start, but going to link anyway. TEWD: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=100 TSRM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BE&P=58 Going off the other posts, it appears you're running an AEM which could be the...

Actually, it makes sure the chassis isn't flexing (yes, it flexes quite a lot). Though it's pointless if you follow the correct order of tightening the bolts...

Yeah, most of the counter guys used to be numbskulls and say they couldn't get anything I needed... Finally found one of the good guys at a local dealer and ordered through him. Still got the same shit on his day off, and it was always fun picking up parts from the idiots that said they...

Only 2 real things it could be. You have juice going to the solenoid when it shouldn't be, or you have a stuck solenoid in the starter.

The crimp connections are for the high pressure side...you don't want to mess with those. If you fit a cooler to that, it would probably explode.

Are you using a wideband to see the lean spot? Also, if you do a rewire, you have to ground the shielding. Fuel pressure for the lexus AFM isn't nearly high enough, and it's not recommended (some people do get away with it, but I would never do it). Injectors are cheaper than an engine...

lexus AFM without the 550cc injectors...