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Generally the leak has nothing to do with the rubber seals... It's the seal of the drip rail to the top. They use 2 adhesive strips in there to do the sealing, and if you manhandle the drip rail at all (like when you take the top off), you break the old seal and water pours into the internal...

Well, it's either that or the simple thought that the hub centric rings are wrong... I'm sure the measurement on the rotor is right though :)

It was tested way back in the day... I also kind of agree about the bolts...if you're going to go with new hardware, use studs.

OK, as I'm feeling nice... I mentioned the seals in the climate control system because there is foam around the various doors in the system. If it wears out, you'll get hot air, drafts from the outside, etc... Anyway, if you're not at the lowest temp on the climate control, the blend door...

That's what any plug that's misfiring looks like... If it was all of the plugs, I'd say they're too cold. Generally speaking though, if you replace plugs and you still get the misfire, you check the rest of the ignition system. If all the parts there check out, then fuel system. If that...

pre-89 had one fan.

Some cars run oil pressure switches that will kill the engine if oil pressure is too low :)

The hub is tapered, that's why the ID of the hub centric rings for wheels are smaller than the ID of the rotor. If it wasn't tapered, you'd never get the rotor off...

I've messed with those light bars, they wouldn't be remotely legal for road use. It being a single line of light, being too low, etc would be an automatic failure (and a cop magnet) On the headlight/hood molding in, that gold supra drift truck thing had it done. Wasn't a fan at all of it then...

I'm sure you know it wouldn't be street legal or safe...

Ah, yeah, definitely because it's crossing the border. Mom's Miata is probably going to be getting a few items from them soon (it's where I heard about them).

The hub is tapered...

No, you send them your old one and they make a pattern. They do not purchase a wheel. http://www.redlinegoods.com/notsupported2.php I've been trying to get my bro to send his MKII wheel in for a while, so I've already talked to them about it...

Getting it recovered isn't hard (redlinegoods.com is pretty well known for stuff like that) but getting the buttons relabeled is not going to be easy as they're not actually labels but ink/paint. Would probably be easier to buy new switches in that case, or see if anyone can duplicate the...

Seems to be a common "issue" on these cars, and it's simply because the base of the windshield (where the fresh air is taken) is a high pressure zone, and the heater valve never truly closes all the way. Add in old seals around the various components in the climate control system and it's going...

There was someone doing a crazy build trying to hit 300HP...that he didn't hit as he ran out of money. If he spent the same amount on a turbo motor he would have been double that power.

Clutch is slipping. Could be a few things: - Clutch wasn't properly broken in (glazed). - Flywheel's backstep wasn't properly machined (or at all). - Clutch pedal freeplay wasn't set when the clutch was replaced. - Driver issues (no offense).

On the seat belts, you can usually have an upholstery shop replace the webbing (that's the proper term for the "belt" part of the seatbelts).

It can be done with the engine in the car, but requires special tools and good luck (bad luck and things go very wrong). It's not a "critical" thing to fix, but it's annoying and it can cause other issues (very heavy valve deposits, etc).

Eh, I don't open the harness, I just add a new sub-harness :)