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machine shop custom made?

doesn't the oil hose result in the grounding of the cooler though? Or are you using push-lok hose?

no more than the AC condenser would have.

I tied mine in to my intercooler mount/hood latch mount/radiator crossmember. You can always make some simple brackets out of aluminum bar and mount them that way. Mine ended up extremely rigid, though don't ever want to disassemble it as it took a long time to assemble.

cost me $9/injector to have done locally. It was well worth it as they found that one of the injectors was stuck closed (likely from ~3 years of not running).

unfortunately, that photo was from my phone, so no higher quality pics yet....in time though.

go for it, as long as you can keep the pipe straight you shouldn't have a problem. No significant change in flow either as long as you keep everything smooth.

looking closely at these pics, you can see markings consistent with the position of risers/feeders (on the strut mount and the #1 rear arm attachment boss)...thats what I based my assumption on.

I'm hoping I can get this on the car and take it out for a spin in the next week or so...otherwise testing will happen in spring. As you can see, the bolt hole was machined a tad "long", but this will allow for fine tuning of the throttle response (or hood clearance) by moving the wheel up and...

here it is, better late than never I suppose.

here is the car on the last day of driving before storing it for the winter. I also finally got the throttle lever made - only a week too late. Here it is.

the rear axle carrier, which contains the brake tabs. When I disassembled and sandblasted mine, it certainly didn't look like a forging.

you really cannot "monitor" your pressure as you will always have a leak (open engine valves). The best solution I found was to pressurize the system through the turbo inlet and listen/feel for leaks. Just to be forwarned, the EGR vac modulator will leak (which i beleive it is designed to). I...

upgraded radiator kindof hates on the space. Without the auxiliary fans a 2.75" pipe was tight for me.

might want to look into oval piping. This might be a good solution for running the pipe through there. https://www.drgas.net/

Local machine shop is the best source - in my case, I had them made by my machine shop at work. They're pretty easy to turn on a lathe - they shouldn't cost more than $50-75 bucks. 4130 is probably one of the better material choices.

While there are people who have drilled the rear tabs with success, you are asking for problems drilling into a casting, especially when you leave less material and increase the braking force on the tabs.

it depends if you have a front brake kit or not. for me, definitely worth it. you need to machine new threaded caliper inserts (4) and centreing rings for the rotors.

not quite plug and play, but close.

There is an orifice in the PVC port on the TB. ~2 mm in diameter iirc. It is only apparent when the TB is off the car. Blow through it and you will realize that it is there.