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Before going any further, I just want to point out that this throttle lever connects directly to the butterfly pivot - it eliminates the factory linkage on the throttle body which is itself an eccentric system. If you still have the stock linkage installed, the improvements using the new lever...

"everything lined up to zero" means absolutely nothing. What was the camber, toe, and caster settings they used? (hint, zero is only the target for toe-in) when getting an alignment, you MUST get a printout of the before and after settings. Otherwise, how do you know they actually adjusted...

There must be something wrong with your setup if you still have the stock TB. I never had any driveability issues with the stock setup since it is effectively an eccentric system. (that, and the tb is relatively small). My issues arose when using a Q45 TB (linkage removed for hood clearance)...

Its true, 1:1 is unbearable. A grabby clutch makes things much worse.

that requires a transmission pull...$500 doesn't seem out of line to me. I'd say the price you are paying for those services (especially installation and tuning of the haltech) is reasonable. Remember, you get what you pay for.

Agreed. This is one of the reasons I enjoyed living in Australia.

I was in grade 1, wearing ties to school, and getting in shit for throwing rocks at kids on the playground. I miss the lack of responsibility of childhood....

next step in the project: Not the V2 I was hoping for, but for the price I paid (stupid cheap), well worthwhile. Looks like I'll spend the winter learing the ways of the computer and probably look into removing the multiplexed ignition. Should be a significant step up from the lex/S-AFC...

the "pull" radius is 28.5 mm (to maintain the pull distance of the stock pedal). Centre "bore" is offset -8.7 mm in the y-direction and -6.4 mm in the x-direction.

can't give anything concrete yet, but I'd imagine 80-100 CAD each (unfinished) I'd imagine anodizing would add ~20 bucks to that price. Keep in mind that these are rough estimates.

doesn't really matter as long as you don't burn through the pipe (which is fairly easy to do with a mig) I'd personally go with the slip-fit joints - it will make welding much easier, not to mention improving flow due to avoiding the protrusion of the weld root into the pipe. tack weld in 3...

what kind of throttlebody do you have? I made an eccentric TB for my q45 TB. It improved my situation significantly. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102862&highlight=eccentric&page=3 I'm looking into having a small batch of these built, but I need at least 10 people to make...

I'm 90% sure they are M8 bolts...hopefully somebody can confirm that. Have any spare bolts floating around? Thread the appropriate one in and then measure the major diameter of the thread. 8mm = M8 x 1.25 10mm = 10 x 1.25

pretty solid customer service if you ask me.

To the OP: Verify that your front subframe is perfectly aligned to the frame. IIRC, there can be a little play in it. If one wheel is significantly further ahead than the other, I'd first check the control arms (measurement would be easiest), followed by ball joints (upper/lower although play...

Looks like you're just in here to start shit. IJ has explained that the settings work for him. Great. Anybody with even less-than-stellar intellegence can figure this out. I don't see anywhere where he tries to convince others to align their cars similar to his. In fact, he says don't use...

50 trim will probably give you the most longevity out of the turbo.

you can also clean the old lubricant off the threads...you should be doing this anyway to eliminate any contaminants that will affect the frictional properties of the lubricant. although it is counterintuitive, lubricated threads require significantly less "torque" than dry to result in the...

I suppose you could fill the upper portion of the head with oil and install the camshafts, let the head sit, and see if any oil leaks through... Otherwise, the seals are $20 and the keeper removal tool is $35...it might be easiest just to replace. Plus, the newer Viton seals apparently last...

is your clutch correctly adjusted? how much do you slip the clutch? is the wear only on one side of the clutch or both?