Sheered Diff. Bolt.

[tekimp]

I know this is a semi-common problem... and the diff cradle cracking is a problem.

I think I have both problems. Taking it to the shop to have the sheered diff. bolt removed tomorrow, hopefully. Will check the cradle while the car is lifted too.

But I am trying to verify if it is okay to have the mechanic cut into the sub frame to remove the free floating (spinning) remains of the bolt shaft. And put a new bolt in there.

Any pro's / con's to this?

Any advice and guidance is much appreciated.

Thankyou.

 

[gixxer750]

Have the subframe reinforced too if you are making any real power or drag racing.

When I had my old mk3, I broke multiple rear subframes at the track. They'd crack around the diff mounts, body mounts and all over the place. I actually broke one in half right over the top of the nose of the diff.

 

[tekimp]

UGH!

$4000 to $4200 for all the repairs. AAAAAH!

Let's see what work they will be doing here...

***Bad rear main seal on the engine... explains the motor oil leak.

***Gear oil leak... still unknown...

***Differential mounting bolt...

***Haltech ECU with Boost Controller.

***New Wiring harness for ECU.

***Dyno and tune.

That's it... I think....

Am I getting a good deal?

I mean, the Haltech and wiring harness is about $1799. Haltech Boost Controller is about $150.

AEM Wideband AFM and Wideband Sensor? Cost, I don't know...

Rear Main Seal Replacement... $500

Differential Mount Bolt Replacement about $500

Then the cost for labor and re-wiring and dyno and tune?

Replacing all the fluids....

Ugh...

Any input would be great on this. Reguardless, I am having it done by them. They are the BEST in North Carolina... and When it's all said and done... I believe I should be pushing some 400~500 whp.

Consdering that the SARD ECU is not the right one for my car... I believe that replacing that ECU with the Haltech Standalone ECU will unlock much of the untapped potential of the car.

 

[gixxer750]

$500 to replace a rear main LOLOMGWTFISTHISSHIT

 

[tekimp]

ugh... I was praying that wouldn't be too expensive... but I guess that is not the case... uh... yeah... *sad*

Well, if you think about it... dropping the transmission... and all that requires, just to get to it... requires a bit of work.

I've never done it before... and I really don't want to mess it up... considering I need this car ready for a long haul trip from Ft. Bragg, NC to El Paso, TX.

Still, is that seriously too much?

 

[gixxer750]

for 2.5 hours labor... yeah.

 

[tekimp]

What should I be looking at paying then for everything?

I am already getting upset that I was told it would be ready this friday or saturday... and well... they are still doing the new wiring harness. So, the dyno-tuning is still needed. The car has been there since Monday of last week... they were suppose to diagnosis it... doubt that was done. They started working on it this past Monday... so... that's about 5 days now.


I don't know what mechanics charge now-a-days....

I am seriously starting to feel pretty bad right now about the costs.

Of course I was told, all the work would be less than $4,200....

Initially I was told $2500 to $3200... $1000 more though?

Also, they are the best shop in the State!

I don't know, feeling seriously confused now.

Can someone please give me a break down of the costs I previously mentioned. I've yet to receive an itemized breakdown myself.

I am gonna go to the shop tomorrow, come hell or high water. If it's not ready by the close of business... what should I do?

 

[adampecush]

$500 to replace a rear main LOLOMGWTFISTHISSHIT

that requires a transmission pull...$500 doesn't seem out of line to me.

I'd say the price you are paying for those services (especially installation and tuning of the haltech) is reasonable.

Remember, you get what you pay for.

 

[tekimp]

Thankyou!

THAT IS RIGHT! HA!

I wanted the BEST SHOP in the state to work on it... not some half-witted hack of a mechanic.

OMG! I had a crappy mechanic work on my first MK III (R.I.P.)... poor poor car... it didn't even have a chance in the hands of this horrid mechanic in town... after that... I swore I would only get the best for my next Supra.

Thus, the reason I went and drove 3 hours there to that great shop.


Thankyou again. It is quite difficult to part with so much money... but my baby does deserve the best.

 

[gixxer750]

I'd pull transmissions and install rear mains ALL day long for $500 a pop on supras. I can have the trans out and back in less than 2 hours on a lift.

Thats 250 an hour labor for me

 

[tekimp]

:cry:

What am I to say?

They're EXTREMELY busy.

Dropped the car off two Monday's ago. Was told they would diagnosis it that Tuesday or Wednesday, it wasn't quite diagnosed. Rather, when I called on Friday evening (1 hour prior to closing) they were just pulling it in the shop. Then on Saturday, I asked what they found wrong... it felt like they had not checked a thing, but rather told me what they could do to fix the things that I had initially said were wrong with the car.

Thus, we came to the price for the ECU, new Harness, replacement of rear main seal, etc. $4000 ~ $4200.

Upon agreement, they said they would get "Hot and Heavy" on the job on Monday and that it SHOULD be done on Friday or Saturday.

I wrote an e-mail to get some questions answered later this past week, Wednesday I believe.

Friday, I called and found they were still working on installing the new wiring harness. They said it should be done by Saturday, if nothing goes wrong.

Once again, called Saturday, and... was told it should be ready that evening if nothing went wrong and they would call me if it was ready. The shop closes at 5:00 p.m. on Saturdays.

After 3:30 that day, I drive out there, having not received a call. 4:30 p.m. Halfway there, I get a call and hear that the car is not done.

The shop closes, but someone stays behind to, "close the shop."

We get there at 5:37. Look at my car and what do we see?

NOTHING!

It was lifted, so I couldn't tell what was done.

YET! I could clearly see, the main differential bolts were removed, they said they couldn't get the bolts to line up right... so the job was waiting to be completed.

The drive shaft was on the floor. Glove box on the floor. A couple miscellaneous bolts here and there....

ALSO! It wasn't the rear main seal that was bad... now they are telling me that it's the front main seal?

HOW DOES THAT HAPPEN? Can oil travel that drastically to where you cannot tell if the front or the rear main seal is busted?

They said the car was so muddy underneath when they pulled it in, that the couldn't inspect it properly. When I looked at the bottom of the car while I was there... I only saw light... VERY LIGHT mud on the tires. I know they didn't try to just "detail" the bottom of my car now... come on.

So... what to do? Can't pick up the car this week. Leave to Texas for Turkey day Wednesday evening. Won't be back till Sunday Evening. Dunno how busy work will be.

It all feels wrong. It totally feels wrong. I mean, the owner told me when it would be ready. The guy is really good, his workers are good. Yet, when the person goes against his word... that's just horrible.

 

[tekimp]

PARAPHRASED...

Job not done, shop is going slow, car has been there for 2 weeks.

Something ain't right.