3p141592654;1999503 said:
ill add that to my weapon list lol sooo many tools 1. tool to pull the balancer 2, tool to hold balancer 3. tool to remove the timing gear..geez lol did i miss something
Crankshaft " Pulley" ????!!!
- Thread starter noel
- Start date
ill add that to my weapon list lol sooo many tools 1. tool to pull the balancer 2, tool to hold balancer 3. tool to remove the timing gear..geez lol did i miss something
Well, you can use #3 for #1, (i.e. use the right tool for both) and instead of #2, you can try to leave it in gear and use the e-brake and wheel chocks.
noel;1999520 said:
Why can you understand the damper to be difficult and not the gear? They both are on the same crankshaft. For the record, I have slid off many Toyota timing gears without a pulley.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=25
really quick questoin whats the store specs on the No.2 Timing belt cover the plate that sits behind the cam gears
Nick M;1999550 said:
lucky u idk why mines is so stubborn. I guess i have time now since i need to order a new one since the lip came off i was reading in another thread that some guy had his timing belt chewed up because the lip came off which is called a guide lip. i will not take any chances. How much i cant see the second woodruff key?
if water gets between the crank and pulley you can get corrosion that will make it stick. I'd try PB blaster and maybe a propane torch ot head up the gear so it comes off easier. I used a flat head screw driver as a wedge to get mine off. best of luck.
Little late to the party, but for future reference:
- If the guide comes off, you NEED a new pulley. Get a new one from the dealer (cost may have gone up, but I paid around $25) as the design is revised and the guide is staked on much more securely.
- Use the proper puller.
- It's supposed to be a press fit. If it wasn't you'd leak oil.
- If the guide comes off, you NEED a new pulley. Get a new one from the dealer (cost may have gone up, but I paid around $25) as the design is revised and the guide is staked on much more securely.
- Use the proper puller.
- It's supposed to be a press fit. If it wasn't you'd leak oil.
Poodles;1999684 said:
Better late than never lol Yea i did order a new pulley from curt over at Toyota $97.00 shipped..FML... have no choice
I got the proper pulley, and the pulley gear came off with no problem and what is press fit?
The timing gear and crank pulley are both supposed to slide off and on by hand. They are held on by the crank bolt. IE: no interference fit. However corrosion can build up over time making them hard to remove. You should clean crankshaft snout and the holes of both with some fine emery cloth before reassembly. A light coat of antisieze on reassembly could not hurt for future tear downs. The crank seal prevents oil from leaking out. Not press fit timing gear.
The seal is not the only part keeping oil out. Or else how is it sealed between the crank and the gear.....
Of course the inner lip of the crank seal rides on the timing gear. But the gear still should slide off and on by hand. The timing gear and the crank pulley IE: harmonic balance are held on by the crank bolt. Not a "press fit"
You don't get it. The seal seals from the timing housing to the crank gear. But there is nothing but metal seal the crank to the crank gear. They do slide off but it is supposed to be a tight fit for a reason.
super51fan;1999835 said:
super51fan;1999846 said:
No no no NO
It's a press fit and was a press fit from the factory. There's a reason both pulleys have tapped holes in them for mounting a puller just like the TSRM shows. If they were NOT a press fit, they could work loose and bad things would happen.
Why? It is self evident that oil will leak from the backside of the pulley through the crank snout-pulley interface to the front side. Members have reported this oil leak before. It is good practice to run some FIPG on the crank snout where the pulley sits during reassembly.
super51fan;1999871 said:
Really?
Now please do shut up. If they're loose, they beat the hell out of the keyways and damage the crank.
super51fan;1999835 said:
This is the ONLY post that makes any logical sense.
Not press fit guys, thats why there is a BOLT securing the timing gear/crankshaft harmonic balancer assembly. Guess you "mechanics" haven't looked at anything but a Toyota engine. Go look at the crankshaft harmonic balancer on a straight six out of an 82 Chevy C10, see a bolt holding it on? No? OHH well THAT'S A PRESS FIT BUDDY! Requiring the use of tools to install and remove.
Toyota suggests the use of SST's because in their automotive engineering quest they've realized a little fact called static friction. That is the need for the SST's. The pulley and gear were designed and engineered to be installed by hand, if it was press fit every human would need to use a tool/machine to install it, not just random humans, but all of them.
Front crankshaft seal rides on snout of crankshaft to keep oil from coming out of the crankcase on 7M. The only time you need to use FIPG on the crank snout/crank balancer securing bolt flange is when the front crankshaft seal rides on the crankshaft harmonic balancer, like on the Ford Duratec engines. Two different designs.
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You just compared apples to oranges. The crank pulley and gears are machined to tight tolerances. half the toyotas ive worked on did not come off by hand and which are usually the newer cars with less miles.
And fyi the reason chevy makes them so tight is beacuse they dont have keyways. Without it being so tight the crank pulley would just spin.
And fyi the reason chevy makes them so tight is beacuse they dont have keyways. Without it being so tight the crank pulley would just spin.
DeadlyWrenches;2000042 said:
Notice the last picture I posted that says the drive the gear on with a hammer and SST? Apparently not...